Sealing gas tank

I started working on the gas tank today. It didn’t look too bad when I started, but ended up taking a LOT more work than I imagined.

Step 1: Remove tank from Jeep.

Step 2: Drain tank into a 5 gallon bucket. A lot of sediment came out of the tank, but it still looked fairly clean and rust free. I could tell that there was rust on the top side and filler neck of the tank.


Step 3: Clean the tank. The KBS kit came with KBS Klean – a concentrated cleaner that you mix 1:1 with hot water. The directions said to use it all, but I did half of the bottle, which came out to 1/2 gallon once mixed.


I taped up the openings with actual DUCT TAPE, not Duck Tape that you buy at WalMart. Once sealed up, you pour it in and add a bunch of nuts and bolts to help break the stubborn rust away from the tank. Then you tape up the filler neck.



Now the fun part begins! Once the cleaner is in, you have to shake and rotate and turn the tank, making sure you cover all surfaces of the tank. I worked on one part at a time – side, end, side, end, bottom, top and filler neck. I rotated for a good 2-3 minutes, then set it down for about 5 minutes – then I repeated the above process. I did this for a little over 30 minutes. Then I dumped it out (it’s biodegradable) and rinsed until the water came out clean. This is the result after the first cleaning:


A little better, but not much! The gas smell was almost gone. Some of the varnish was gone. BTW, if you are planning on doing this and NOT repainting the tank – FORGET IT! This cleaner removes paint!

I mixed up the other half of the cleaner and repeated the process. This time I spent about 45 minutes and made sure I did more with the top of the tank and filler neck. When I opened it up and washed it out, it was noticeably cleaner. This time I dried out the inside with a rag and used my shop vac to blow air into the tank to dry it. I also used my air compressor to blow air at the seams which hold water.




Between rotations, I worked on the pickup plate and fuel sender.


Once the tank was dry, I taped up the openings again and added the whole bottle of KBS Rust Blast – FULL STRENGTH and taped up the filler neck. This stuff is a rust remover, metal etcher and leaves a zinc phosphate finish. This finish will protect the tank from rust for 10 days (according to the instructions) to 30 days (according to the bottle).


Once in the tank, you will rotate the tank to cover all surfaces, then let it sit on one surface for 5 minutes (don’t let it dry out), rotate, let it sit on another side, rotate. Repeat until all surfaces are covered for a MINIMUM of 30 minutes, MAXIMUM 1 hour. Drain it out into a container for future use. Once it’s drained out, rinse it out a few times and dry it again. The shop vac works great for this – just use compressed air to blow the air out of the seams – the tank has to be completely dry before you seal it! Once dry, the KBS Blast leaves a slight powdery finish on the inside. The instructions say this is normal and won’t affect the sealer.



While the tank was drying, I used the leftover Blast to brush on the sender, gas cap and pickup plate rust. After keeping it wet for a half hour, I rinsed and dried those parts also.



Tomorrow afternoon I will do the sealing. I didn’t want to start it late this afternoon. I won’t lie, this is a labor intensive job! I started at 12:30PM and finished the etching at 4:45PM! The sealing process SHOULDN’T take too long – mix it, pour it in, tape the openings, rotate to cover all surfaces, drain well and make sure all bolt holes are cleaned of sealer before it sets up. Then you have to let it sit and dry for 3-4 days before you use it. I am going to brush the sealer on the pickup plate, sender and gas cap.

Again, plan on sanding and repainting the outside of the tank when you are finished.






Ultrasonic cleaner

I didn’t feel like getting into a major Jeep project yesterday so I played around with the ultrasonic cleaner and changed the oil in the truck. I also had a few visitors to the shop that stayed about an hour each, so that took up a good bit of the day too. It’s nice to get visitors when you’re not really trying to get stuff done!

So I had about 10oz of Super Clean left in a gallon – seemed like a good ratio for ultrasonic solution. I poured that in and topped the tank off with ~140deg water (that’s what the water heater is set on). I pulled the spark plugs out of the Jeep – this is what I had. Besides 3 of the plugs being incorrect and the other one almost rusted away, they were pretty bad carbon buildup topped with gas residue (the carb is pretty much plugged up). The inside of the plugs were dirty, but not too bad.



I threw them in the cleaner and ran them through an 8 minute cycle. They were cleaner, but not as good as I wanted, so I put them in for another 8 minutes.

This is what the solution looked like when it was just starting to clean.


After the second cleaning, this is the result – no other cleaning done. I rinsed them in clean water and blew them off with air.

I grabbed a pedal cross shaft that was laying on the bench and threw it in there for 2 – 8 minute cleanings. It came out looking like this.

The paint was completely loose and I was able to scrape it off with a putty knife. No other work was done to it.

Then I grabbed a spare fuel sending unit that was laying on the bench. I didn’t get a before pic, but it had been painted and the internal potentiometer was rusted up, so it wouldn’t read correctly when it actually worked. After a couple of cleanings, I was able to scrape the bubbled up paint off and the rust was gone. The float had a hole in it though – I could hear gas in it. I had to drill a hole in it and put air pressure to it to find the crack. Once I found that, I cleaned, fluxed and soldered the crack and the drilled hole up. I tested it in water – no bubbles and didn’t hear anything in it except for a piece of solder that dropped inside while closing up the holes.


Lastly, I grabbed a handful of hand tools that have been laying on the other bench for a long time (I didn’t want to throw them away because they are old brand name tools – just rusty). I ran them through 2 cleanings. I also put a couple of well used putty knives in there. The pliers and needle nose wouldn’t even open. It didn’t get all of the rust off, but put a dent in it. I cleaned them up with the wire wheel on the bench grinder and oiled them up afterward. The pliers worked like new and the wood on the putty knives cleaned up well. Good enough for the toolbox!

Lastly, I threw a bunch of rusty nuts, bolts and washers in there for a while. Again, it didn’t remove a whole lot of the rust, but I was able to remove the rusted on nuts. I ran over them with the wire wheel and called it a day. A lot of them are too rusted away to reuse, but I was able to save some of them. These came off my M100 trailer. I didn’t bother taking a pic of them.

This is what the solution looked like after a day of cleaning! Also notice the “handles” I made for the tray – a necessary upgrade that they should have included with it. The holes were there, just no handles! I had to drill the holes all the way through so I could put a piece of 14ga electrical wire through for the handle.


Overall, I am very pleased with this cleaner! Although it doesn’t pass the “tinfoil test”, it has enough power to do LIGHT cleaning. You can buy a more powerful one with about the same capacity off and adjustable timer (so you aren’t limited to max 8 minutes) off eBay for about $100 – twice the sale + coupon price of this one. If I use this one enough, I might invest in a little more powerful one later.














Wet sanding

I got out to the shop late this evening and did a little wet sanding (blocking) on the Jeep. I was able to get the fenders, cowl, most of the passenger side (except where I am going to have to do more bodywork) and the hood.





The hood took more work than I expected. I’m not completely finished with it yet – it can use a little more blocking, but it’s getting there.


Back to work tomorrow – hope to get the last of the bodywork and all of the painting done while I’m on my 7 days off starting Friday.

Battery stuff

Yesterday, after I finished installing the rest of my LED bulbs (and rewiring the fixtures – some of the ballasts were actually BURNT!) in the shop, I had a little time to work on Jeep stuff. My USMC Jeep didn’t have any battery hold down brackets when I got it, so I ordered some from QTM Parts last year – made for later model M38a1s. When I got them, they were too wide for the batteries I am running (Type 51R) – they were about 3/8″ too wide, so they would fall off of the little ledge on the sides of the batteries. My only 2 options were to buy military batteries ($$$) or modify the hold downs for the readily available 51R battery (from Walmart). I decided to modify the hold downs.

I used a cutoff tool to cut the long rod and take out about 1/2″ of it. I test fit it on the battery for a tight fit and used the bench grinder to fine tune the overall width. Once I was happy with the fit, I tack welded the pieces together and test fit on the battery again.

Here is a pic showing the difference in width with the pieces tacked together.


I added some shrink tubing on the pieces before I tacked them together. After it was ground back down, I moved the small piece over to cover the bare metal, shrank it, then moved the long piece over to cover the rubber on both sides. I didn’t take a picture of the finished piece. I MIGHT buy some liquid rubber to paint over the shrink wrap to make it look original – or not! I still have to buy some 1/4″ rod (if I don’t have any) to make the hold down rods.

After I finished with the hold downs, I checked the battery that was on the BatteryMinder – it isn’t holding a charge. So I disconnected it and hooked it up to the USMC Jeep battery, disconnected the center cable and ran jumper wires to the second battery. I wanted to see how this would work before I did anything permanent.


I checked it today and the BatteryMinder said charge was complete and maintaining. I checked the batteries with my multimeter and they were both reading 13.5v. Now that I know it works, I have a couple of options. 1)Buy a 24v maintainer and hook up one quick connect cord every time I pull back into the shop, or 2)Buy 2-12v maintainers and have to disconnect the center battery cable every time I reconnect the maintainers.



One day off – not much accomplished

Yesterday was my one day off, so I didn’t get to work on the Jeep. I do, however, have some Jeep related stuff to write about.

New M100 tub

I ran across a new replacement tub for my M100 chassis on Facebook Marketplace. It was fairly local and I negotiated a great price for it before I even went to check it out. I had been looking at buying an MD Juan tub for a while, but wasn’t completely convinced that was what I wanted to do – make it a flatbed for $75 worth of metal or put a reproduction M100 tub on it for $950 + time and money driving 1000 miles to pick it up. Anyhow, I wanted it as soon as we pulled the shipping crate out of the garage. Read about it (plus pictures) HERE.

Mail Call

When I got back home from picking up the trailer tub, there was a package waiting for me from Rick Pacholski of Old Jeep Carbs LLC. I mailed my old Carter YS950 to him last week. Once he receives the carb, he inspects it and sends out a detailed description of the needed repairs and gives you a quote before he does any work. After you agree to the needed repairs, he will do the work and field test the carb on a road test in his Jeep. Then he will send you a video of it running on the Jeep and some glamour shots of the carb. HERE is a link to the Youtube video he sent of my carb. And here are a couple of shots that I took of it after I received it.



He does an excellent job. This is the second M38a1 carb he has done for me. He re parkerizes the throttle body and will Cerakote the rest of the carb if you want. His rebuild services are also very affordable and he offers a veteran/LEO/Fireman/EMT discount! He goes through it with a fine tooth comb and even uses original Carter tools to work on and set up the carbs! I highly recommend his services.

I am going to wait until after I finish cleaning and sealing the inside of my gas tank (and installing my new filter). I don’t want to put a fresh carb on and pull some crap out of the tank into it!

Battery update

I checked my battery yesterday after I got home. It had been on charge for 5 days (Sunday) when I checked it. It was still showing charging, so I refilled the cells (a couple were a little low) and let it keep doing its thing. When I got home yesterday, it was showing “Reversed Polarity” and had stopped charging (of course). I checked the voltage – it showed 10.9v! Something must have happened over in the night or maybe adding water did it – I don’t know. I unplugged the charger and moved the clamps around a little and plugged it back up. It came back on with no fault and was showing charging again. I checked it this morning and it was still charging. I guess I’ll let it go for a while longer and unplug it to see if it holds a higher charge this time. If not, it’s probably too far gone to revive.

Finished painting (1st coat)

Switching shop lights to LEDs

Before I got started on the Jeep this morning, I had a little work to do in the shop while it warmed up outside. I bought 12 LED bulbs for the ceiling lights in the shop and wanted to get them put in today. When I dropped the cover on the first light, I saw that I had screwed up and only ordered half of the bulbs I needed! I was thinking that the fixtures only had 2 bulbs each – but there were 4. After figuring out how to wire them up, removing the ballasts and rewiring everything, I had about an hour worth of work in the first one! The second one was about 30 minutes and the last one (that I had bulbs for) took about 25 minutes. It sure did make a difference though – the fluorescent bulbs were 34w each and the LEDs are 40w equivalent each. Now I just need to order 12 more bulbs to finish the other 3 fixtures. This picture isn’t that great, but you can still see that the middle fixture is brighter.


Back to work on the Jeep

After I finished the lights, I got to work on the Jeep. It had warmed up enough outside to do a little painting. I figured I would go ahead and get the battery box and tool box covers painted, along with the hood exterior (1st coat). I moved everything outside and set them up for painting. I ran my hand over the hood and it was a little rougher than I liked, so I decided to run over it with 22o grit again. I had to sand the other 2 parts down too. When I was happy with the result, I mixed up about a third of a cup of paint (about 5 oz) and sprayed everything with a wet coat.




I had a little left over, so I went ahead and trimmed out the tool box and fronts of the wheelwells before I ran out.  That looked pretty good, so I wiped down the rest of the floor and wheelwells. I mixed up another 1/4 cup (about 4oz) of paint and sprayed the rest of the interior. I think one coat on that will do it, but I am going to scuff and repaint the floor, tranny cover and gas tank well while the tank is out for sealing.


When the hood was dry, I found a few places that will have to be sanded well before I put the final coat on it. The covers looked good. The interior had some trash in it, but I wasn’t expecting a perfect job when painting outside.

Well that’s it for these 3 days off. I think I got a lot accomplished this week! My next day off is Monday, but I will be going to look at an MD Juan M100 trailer tub still in the shipping crate. We already agreed on a price, so if he still has it, I will bring it home if it looks to be in excellent condition and everything measures out right.


Sanding and other prep work

This morning I checked on how the paint turned out. To my surprise, I realized that I had left the hood outside all night and it started raining early this morning! I grabbed it and brought it inside and got it dried off quickly. It looked like it had a bunch of water spots, but overall it looked good. After it sat for awhile, the water spots went away and it looked really good!

Battery update

The battery is coming along. It was up to 14.03v when I first went out this morning. Two cells look good (1 of them looks NEW!), 2 cells look better, and the other 2 a still very sulfated. You can tell that it is working on the 2 worst ones though – it looks like the scale is starting to break up. The other 2 are looking good, but still a little discolored. I’ll report on it again tomorrow.

Sanding and Prep work

The first thing I did was sand the interior. I started with 220 grit and then went back with 320 grit. Looks pretty smooth.


After I finished that, I went back and sanded around the toolbox area after removing the seat support, brake handle and seat hinges.


Next, I sanded down the inside of the toolbox and sprayed a heavy coat of Rustoleum Rust Converter in it. I have always had good luck using this stuff.


While that was drying, I stripped the toolbox lid and found 2 places on the lip that were rusted out and needed to be repaired. So I cut those places out.


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Then I primed the outside of the toolbox lid. I wasn’t planning on fixing the rust today.


Then I moved on to the battery box lid. The inside was kindof rusty – I guess from the acid fumes? Anyway, I sanded that down with 220 and sprayed it with rust converter.


Next, I prepped and sprayed a whole bunch of small parts with OD 24052. This is only a few of them – I also sprayed the seat support and other stuff.


After the inside of the toolbox was dry, I sprayed it with a heavy coat of OD 24052. I also went ahead and trimmed out around the lip.


And I sprayed the area at the cowl support that I fixed and inside of the passenger side that I patched. I am planning on painting the front of the toolbox and the floor – up to the tunnel.


I had some daylight left, so I decided to go ahead and fix weld the patches into the toolbox lid. Fairly straight forward and easy to do.



I went back and sprayed rust converter around the inside edge to kill a little rust that was there under the seal. I also sprayed the outside to cover the patches.


The last thing I did was spray the inside of the battery box lid with OD 24052 – no pic. I got a lot of little stuff done today, but nothing that made a big change – the little things are what take up most of your time!

Tomorrow, I plan on painting the inside if it warms up enough. I have another project to do until then – replace the bulbs in the shop with LEDs