Still trying

Not much progress to report today – I worked all day on it and accomplished very little!

I got started with adjusting the valves. The intake valve cover came off easily, but as I thought, the side valve cover fought me! I don’t think it has been off in a LONG time! I removed the bell, fording valve and PCV valve – what a PITA! Like I said, this stuff hasn’t been apart in a LONG time! I cleaned them up with the wire wheel, then threw them in a container with gas to soak a little while. After they soaked and got some of the caked up oil out, I threw them in the ultrasonic cleaner for about 10 minutes to get ALL of the old oil out. Then I reassembled. Turned out nice and clean!

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It was leaking oil, and after I finally got the cover off I saw why – the cork gasket was hard and brittle. Once both valve covers were off, I adjusted the valves – most of them were too tight. I used the leftover weather strip glue to attach the new gasket to the side of the block and let that set up while I cleaned and repainted all of the attaching hardware and throttle linkage.

While that was drying, I scuffed and painted my last 2 wheels with 24087 for the spare tire on my other Jeep and the M100 trailer.

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Then I removed the old pedal draft pad (there was only one installed) and installed the new ones. I also reinstalled the master cylinder floor plate.

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Then the fun began! After the side cover was dry, I put a little RTV on the outside of the side cover gasket and bell hole, then reinstalled the cover. Getting the bell, fording valve and PCV valve all tight and lined up was a PITA! I reinstalled the linkage with new washers and cotter pins. While I was in the area, I removed the flex hose, installed a nipple in the fuel pump and installed a rubber hose with clamps.

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When I started the engine, it ran like crap! You could hear a fairly loud hissing noise, which after closer inspection turned out to be a vacuum leak – or should I say LEAKS! BOTH of the elbows on the vacuum side (bottom) of the pump were loose AND the fording valve/PCV valve weren’t tight enough! I put a wrench on the fording valve and turned it a good 4-5 turns which resulted in the PCV valve UNSCREWING from the tee on the line. I had to break the tee loose from the line (again, this stuff hasn’t been loosened in YEARS) in order to tighten it on the PCV valve nipple, then reattach the hard lines. I removed the hard lines from the elbows on the pump, wrapped them with Teflon tape, reinstalled them and the hard lines – vacuum leaks sorted! I cranked it up and it idled very well! I took it for a drive and once it warmed up – same thing – cutting out and trying to cut off.

I took a break from the mechanical part and decided to touch up the hood numbers. I sprayed some 24052 in a cap and used a brush to fix the bleed through. It turned out OK, but you can see it if you look closely.

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Back to the mechanical stuff. I had a few more minutes to work on it, so I decided to put the original distributor back in (the one with the breakerless ignition). Once I did that, I cranked it up and adjusted the timing. I adjusted the air gap on the electronic pickup and installed the adapter to hook up the dwell meter to the distributor. I fired it back up and checked the dwell – 30deg. It is SUPPOSED to be around 45!? I adjusted the idle to 700rpm and the carb until it ran decent. I took it for a test drive and drove around the field for a while. It ran great as long as I kept the RPMs up – ran like crap closer to idle. Once back in the shop, it idled great!??? I gave up for the day!

 

 

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90% finished now

Today was a very productive day! I stopped by Tractor Supply on the way home from work this morning – bought a tube patch kit and 2 – 3/8″ x 48″ round rods. When I got home, the first thing I did was to patch the 2 tubes that weren’t too torn up. Once they were patched, I set them aside to cure while I did other stuff.

The second thing I did was to paint the markings. I started with the little long term storage stencil on the rear.

Then I moved on to the larger long term storage stencil on the cowl.

And finally the most obvious ones after I had a little experience under my belt.

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I sprayed 3 coats on all of the stencils. It didn’t cover completely – was still slightly opaque. Once the third coat was on, I let it tack up for about 10 minutes, then started peeling off the masking paper and paint mask. The hood numbers were very hard to get to stick down completely – I had quite a few places that puckered up because of the compound curves on the hood. These places bled by a little. At least the paint didn’t peel off like my other a1.

Between coats, I scuffed the wheels with Scotchbrite . After I finished the markings, I sprayed the wheels with 24052.

That was a good stopping point to go install my tubes and tires on the spare rims. On the way to my friend’s house, I stopped by and picked up my flywheel that I had resurfaced.

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This time, it only took me about 10 minutes to install both tubes and tires!

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Once back at home, I got to work on the top bow support rods. The drawing I had showed a total length of 39.75″ with one elbow end 1.375″ and the other 1.875″. After I cut and welded the ends on, I test fit one of them. With the support rod level, I marked the point where I need to drill the hole in the forward bow. Then I measured from the rivet up to the mark – It was 25″. Next, I measured the same points on my other Jeep – it measured 25.5″. I measured the length of the support rod on my other Jeep – it was 37.5″! I guess I’m going to have to wait until my top comes in to make sure the front bow will be in the correct position before I drill any holes in the bow.

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The last thing I did was to work on getting it running again. I static timed it and got it to run – rough! So I played around with the distributor until I heard a hissing noise. I grabbed my propane bottle and pointed it at the carb – the idle leveled out a little. Then I felt around the carb base and found a leak! So off came the carb, replaced the gasket and reinstalled the carb. It fired up and idled perfectly! I took her for a ride up the driveway, turned around to head back and it started acting up again! I pulled into the yard and snapped a couple of pics before putting her back in the shop.

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I will work on it again when I get back on night shift next week, but for now I’m done. I guess the next thing to do is to get her running smoothly and reliably. Then I can move on to changing the clutch. Other than that, I think everything the HAS to be done is done!

Grill welt installed

After work this morning, I decided to get the grill welt installed. I’ve been putting it off for a WHILE – since I realized that I threw the tool away that I made for my other Jeep grill welt.

So I scrounged around my metal pile and found a 5/8″ bar and cut a 3/8″ thick chunk off of it with my band saw. Then I put it in my mini mill and used a 1/4″ round nose bit to make  two 1/16″ deep groves in it with a 1/16″ space between them. When I finished this I tested the fit on the grill. It was a little big, so I used the bench grinder to thin the piece to about 1/4″ thick and 1/2′ long. I tested one more time and saw that it would work, so I tack welded it to an old pair of vise grips.

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Once this was done, I had to do some trial and error to try to remember how to use the pliers. I messed up one rivet in the process – luckily, Matt (at QTM Parts) included extras in his grill welt kit! I started by finding the center of the welt and lining that up with the center hole in the grill. I punched a hole in the welt with a metal awl, inserted the rivet and spread the legs of the rivet with a small screwdriver (still small enough to fit through the hole). Once in the hole, I lined up the tool with the rivet legs and gave it a squeeze. It still wasn’t tight at this point, so I adjusted the vise grips and squeezed again – this time it held tight. I moved out, rivet by rivet, toward the end of the driver side. As I got closer to the end, I realized that I needed to stretch the welt to make it to the end hole at the fender. Also, The last 3 or 4 holes are not really accessible to the tool, so I had to use a pair of needle nose vise grips to clamp the rivet legs down (the rivets aren’t really long enough to use the tool either – because the grill is double thickness at the corners). Once I finished the driver side, I repeated the other side. Then I re attached the front wiring harness to the grill.

I think it turned out pretty good other than some scratched up rivet heads (they are a black or dark green color instead of the brass ones on my other Jeep). At least the welt is tight on the grill and now the hood won’t vibrate or get scratched up on the grill.

Nice blurry picture here. I’ll get a better one tomorrow.

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Tomorrow is the first of my 2 days off this week – the 2nd day will be spent with my family since they are on Spring Break. I am planning on getting 2 tubes patched, install 2 tires on rims, scuff and paint the rims on the Jeep and spares, fab up top bow rods and install (to get ready for the top next week), paint the markings and install the pedal draft pads – any bets on how much of that will get completed?

At that point, all I will have left to do before the rally is: clean and re install the seat belts, get it running right and install the new clutch!

 

Seals installed

I had a little time when I got off work this morning, so I stopped by Walmart and picked up a 1oz. tube of 3M weatherstrip adhesive and headed home. I had to dig around my parts stash to find the seals that I ordered a while back.

I pulled my glovebox door, battery box lid and toolbox door off and put them on the bench. There was a little bit of residual foam and glue on the glovebox door, so I scraped it off and wiped everything down with lacquer thinner. The directions said to apply a thin coat on both surfaces and let dry. Then stick them together. So with that in mind, I started an assembly line. I just went through and put the glue on all of the parts and then came back and applied it to the seals. By the time I finished the last seal, I was able to start attaching the seal to the glovebox door. It stuck immediately and formed around the corners easily. I had to trim about 1/4″ off the end. It took a total of maybe 15 minutes to prep, apply the glue and install the seal. That’s the original paint on the inside of the door.

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Next I moved on to the battery box lid seal. I didn’t really like this seal – it is a really thin (a little more than 1/8″) foam rubber material. It was harder to make it form to the corners. I was short of about 1/2″ of material on this one, so I stretched it as much as I felt comfortable with. It turned out OK, but I’m not happy with it – I guess it will serve its purpose though.

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The toolbox door seal was a VERY nice piece. It is a custom molded neoprene seal that is about 1/2″ x 1/2″ with a depression in the top to accommodate the toolbox lip – very nice. It formed around the corners like it was supposed to. I had to trim about 3″ off the end.

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I bought all of these seals from Peter Debella Jeep Parts  . The toolbox seal was $15 and the other 2 were $8 ea.

I won’t be working on it in the morning, but Monday morning I am planning on getting the grill welt installed, Tuesday getting the last 2 tires put on rims (plus getting the tubes patched) and trying to get the thing running again. Wednesday will be getting it running and painting markings. Thursday (maybe) will be changing the clutch.

Not much today

Today was my last day off, so I had a bunch of other stuff that needed to be done. So, basically, I didn’t get too much done on the Jeep. And even worse news is that I couldn’t even get her to fire up! I checked for power to the distributor and spark at the points. I sprayed ether in the carb – didn’t even pop!

So I moved off of that and removed the driver seat so I could pull the pickup assembly out to check the stand pipe fitting to make sure it was tight – it was. I put it all back together and installed the fuel sending unit wire – the fuel gauge didn’t move. After troubleshooting that for a while and even trying another gauge, I gave up on that too.

The last thing I did was finish up the last bit of wiring – the b.o. drive light. The previous owner had cut the end off or pulled the fitting off it or something, so it was just hanging in the engine compartment. The wire wasn’t long enough to reach the light the way it is supposed to, so I had to fix it. I unwrapped the wires back to the Y where the horn wire and b.o. drive light wire separated to find good wire. Then I cut and butt spliced a new wire onto that piece and covered it with shrink tube. Finally, I re wrapped the wires with wiring harness tape. Now all of the electrical (except for the fuel gauge) works like it is supposed to (pretty much)!

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I’m hoping to be able to work on her a little while I am working night shift. I can do some of the quick stuff like scuffing and painting the wheels, painting the markings, fabbing the w/s to front bow rods (and drilling the front bow), troubleshoot why it won’t run and get it ready to change the clutch. Time is getting short – I only have 14 days off before the rally!

 

Almost done!

I got a lot of stuff done today! This morning I went to a friend’s house to use his tire machine to break down 9 wheels/tires and mount 5 new (NOS) Cooper NDCCs. It went pretty good being the first time I had ever used a tire machine. I ended up cutting 5 tubes when I broke the tires down. Luckily, I still had 2 Carlisle tubes – so I was able to (at least) get the 5 mounted for this Jeep. I planned on remounting 2 of the old tires on the new rims I got last month – one for a spare on the other Jeep and the other for the M100 trailer.

One finished (the one on the right) – balanced too! This was the “training” one.

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All done and ready to go. I didn’t know it was so much work involved in tire work!

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I got home and washed them with Super Clean to get the heavy coat of tire dressing off of them. Then I soaked them in Armour All before I remounted them on the Jeep.

Nice new shoes!

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On the way to do the tire work, I dropped my spare flywheel off at the machine shop. I’m hoping to install the new clutch next week, so I had figured I would get my “spare” flywheel machined and ready to go in. It will be ready in the morning when I go to that side of the county to mount my last 2 tires (I have to go get 1 tube patched and hopefully buy another one at the tire shop).

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After I got my tires installed, I put my new blade on the bandsaw and cut the last 2 spacers, then threw them in the lathe to turn them down and drill them out.

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Then I finished installing the gas can carrier.

 

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Next I moved on to the gauge cluster – it needed to be painted to match the dash. I removed all the gauges, painted it and reassembled after it dried. It was a PITA trying to figure out which wires went where since the wire tags were corroded so bad you couldn’t read them! I was finally able to get them all hooked up to the right place after I lubed them up with anti corrosion grease.

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I figured while I was doing electrical, I might as well fix all of the other gremlins on the Jeep. I disconnected every Packard connector to check for corrosion and lubed them with grease before reconnecting them. I got to the front of the Jeep and decided to tackle the passenger headlight (it still had a 12v bulb). I traced out the wiring and installed the 3 prong plug that came with the MRAP headlights I bought on eBay. Crimp connectors and shrink tubing finished it up. Checked them out and everything worked – except the high/low beams were reversed! I traced the wires back to the wire tags outside of the headlight housing and found that the 17 & 18 wires were reversed – switched those and everything worked as it should!

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Next I moved on to the passenger side b.o. marker light not working. I traced that down to a blown bulb and a bad ground – fixed those and now all b.o. lights are working!

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Tail lights work (brake lights too).

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Dash lights work now! So does the high/low beam indicator!

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The last thing I had time to work on was to install the rear seat hooks. I saw them in the p

arts box and had time to throw them on.

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Tomorrow is my last day off and I don’t know what I will have time to get done other than mounting my last 2 tires and picking up my fly wheel from the machine shop. I am pretty much done with paint, reassembly and electrical. As far as mechanical, I have to change the clutch, get it running right, change the tranny/transfer oil and remove/clean/lube/reinstall the speedometer cable. Still have to paint the markings and install the top when it gets here next week.

 

 

 

 

More reassembly

I ran to the store to buy a saw blade from Northern Tool and some Cad plated bolts/nuts from Tractor Supply for the spare tire and gas can carriers. I got home, opened the blade – got the wrong one! I bought one for a hand held saw instead of the floor model. Oh well, on to the next thing on the list.

I put the driver seat on the workbench and installed the cushions, then installed it in the Jeep. Next, I changed out the stainless bolts for the cad plated ones, which look a little more factory and I don’t have to paint them. While working on the back of the Jeep I noticed that the right rear bumperette was painted with the latex paint and didn’t match. So I taped it off, scuffed it and repainted it. Then I installed the gas can carrier with the 2 spacers I made yesterday and the cad plated bolts.

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I scuffed and repainted and installed the shackles and pins and the rear seat.

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Next, I started sorting out the wiring. You can hardly read the aluminum wire tags, so I had to use the “plug it up and check it” method until I had them hooked up right. Now the B.O. marker lights and parking lights work – front and rear. I had to change out the brake light switch  with a generic one I bought at QTM Parts – then the brake lights worked (the stock switch plug works without modification).

It was suggested that I was pulling air from somewhere in the fuel system, so I checked the fuel line fittings to make sure they were tight to (hopefully) fix the gas “surging” problem. Before I installed the driver seat, I tightened up the gas line where it connects to the fuel pickup. Unfortunately, I should have pulled the pickup out and checked the fuel filter standpipe – but didn’t. I guess I’ll pull the seat back out to do that. The surging problem is still there as well as a pretty good miss. I installed a new set of plugs to rule them out. Adjusting the timing and carb helped a little, but it’s still missing pretty bad.

So today I fell short of my goal – I didn’t get the gauge panel installed and all of that wiring sorted out and I didn’t get the spacers finished. I guess that will be a Thursday project. Tomorrow I will be going to switch out my tires and working on my wife’s car.