I moved my Side by side and lawnmower out of the shop to make room for the Jeep. But before I could pull the Jeep into the shop, it needed brakes (because the shop is on a slope). I pulled it out of the tent do that I could get under it in the open to examine the parking brake. I figured that would be sufficient to get the Jeep into the shop so that I could work on the brakes.
Once underneath, I noticed that the parking brake lever was real loose and there was no adjustment (threads) left on the rod. My only option was to disassemble the parking brake assembly to see what was going on with it. After wrestling with the outer shoe cotter pin for a while, I finally got it all apart and took it to the shop for a cleaning. This is what I found:
YEP, that’s metal – not brake lining! The outer shoe was paper thin too.
It just so happened that I had ordered a pair of NOS shoes a few months back for my other Jeep that I had yet to install, so I used the new inner shoe and the old outer one. I reassembled it on the Jeep and tested it out – still noisy, but at least it held!
I pulled the Jeep into the shop using the parking brake and low range and got to work on the brakes. First off was to reinstall the brake light switch – no problem there. Next, I added fluid to the master cylinder – it had all leaked out because it didn’t have a switch installed. I pumped the pedal slowly a few times, then wedged a piece of 2×4 between the pedal and fuel tank. Then I went to the front wheels and cracked bleeders – got a little air out of them. I went to the back and bled them. I repeated the process until I had a little bit of a pedal.
I couldn’t stand it any longer – I had to take a test drive!
I was impressed! The engine was smooth, as well as the transmission and transfer case. The transfer case levers were pretty stiff at first, but as I worked them, they operated easier. The clutch needs adjusting as well as the brakes need more attention. The only gauge that worked was oil pressure – the speedometer was jumping around.
I went back to the shop to start on the list of items I need to work on. I pulled the gauge cluster off and hooked up the NOS temp gauge I bought at Denton to the sending unit wire – it went up to about 140deg. So I removed the old gauge and painted the new one. Once it was dry, I installed it. I hooked up the ignition wire to the spare volt gauge I had – and it worked. This gauge doesn’t have a hold down bracket, so I couldn’t install it. I was done with the gauge cluster for the day.
Next I jacked up the rear end and put a jack stand under the driver side so I could change out the rear brake flex line. Pretty straight forward and quick fix. The old one was pretty ratty!
I took another test drive (without bleeding the rear brakes again). The temp gauge took FOREVER to start moving! Once it did start, it only went up to 140deg even after about 10 minutes of driving around the field! When I got back to the shop, I used the temp gun to get an actual temp – the water temp at the filler was about 134deg! Weird! The head temp was only about 205deg. The lower radiator hose read about 90. I’m going to have to investigate that.
Next, I checked my lights. No headlights, the right front bo marker light didn’t work, rear running lights didn’t work but the bo marker lights did. No dash lights work. I wiggled the levers and the harness connector – no change. So I grabbed my NOS replacement and hooked the connector to it. Viola! – headlights, rear running lights, rear bo marker lights and driver front bo marker worked! The dash lights and front passenger bo marker still don’t (I think the dash lights are bulbs and the marker light is a ground issue).
The last thing I did was to clean the sand off the top of the shift tower as well as remove a bunch of silicon the P.O. put under the shift tower cover. I vacuumed a bunch of blasting media from all around the inside of the tub and toolbox area and the sand from the top of the shifter tower. The I re installed the shift tower cover.
The plan for tomorrow is to install a second inline filter on the fuel line and hook the fuel line back up to see if it will run right from the tank. After that, I might pull the rear drums to inspect and clean the brakes and replace the wheel cylinders.
It’s nice to see both of them in the shop side by side!