Exhaust manifold stud work

I decided to unbolt the body and shift it around a little in order to get a straight shot at the broken stud. I was able to get it moved just enough to accomplish this. Check out this sketchy support system:



I ended up drilling out the old stud because the easy out wouldn’t move it. After I drilled it to size, I tapped it out with a 3/16-16NC tap. Then I used my angle air grinder with a course scotch brite pad on it to polish the mounting surface.


I took the manifold into the shop and used my die grinder with a carbide burr to smooth and polish the inside of the ports then used the angle grinder with a 40 grit disc to clean the gasket surface. Maybe this will boost horsepower by .1%, lol.


My rear end patch panel arrived today from Classic Enterprise. I think I am going to just replace the bent up part on the left, about halfway across the top of the pintle arch.



I’m guessing this panel is for a CJ5 since it doesn’t go all the way across and (I guess) holes for tailgate hinges. Anyhow, the pintle arch and halfway across to the tail light is the only part I need to fix on my rear panel.


Working on exhaust manifold



I had some free time yesterday afternoon, so I thought I would get back on the Jeep. I pulled the spare tire off my other M38a1 (that I had stolen for the Denton rally in April) and installed it back on the Jeep with the new lug nuts I bought from QTM Parts.

Next quick job was to pull the exhaust manifold off and replace the 3 stripped studs in the center. I started removing the nuts and noticed that there was no rear one – maybe there was a bolt installed there at one time instead? Once I removed the manifold (which was easy enough), reality hit me! The rear stud was broken off FLUSH with the block!


I went to the shop and cracked open a cold one to ponder my dilemma. After I thought about it for a few minutes I decided to go ahead a remove the other 4 studs while thinking about possible fixes for the back one. Might as well replace them all while the manifold is off.

They came out easy enough using the double nut trick. I also found out that the front and top center studs protrude into the water jacket – evidenced by the stream of water shooting out of them when I removed them! I inserted the old studs back in them to stop the flow.



I finished my beer and decided to try drilling a hole and using an Easy Out. The problem here is that there is about 3″ between the rear of the block and the firewall. The only way you can drill here is at an angle. Stupid me thought that this would work – even knowing that the Easy Out needs to be installed into a hole drilled STRAIGHT into the stud, not crooked! I center punched the stud, drilled a pilot hole, enlarged the hole and installed the Easy Out – it wouldn’t turn of course. I heated the area and sprayed it with PB Blaster a couple of times – still wouldn’t turn.

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After messing around with it for 30 minutes I put my tools away and had another beer – have to think about it before trying again the next time I’m off.

I posted a request for ideas on the Facebook M38a1 page tonight and got a few replies that pointed me in the opposite direction from where I was heading. The only thing I was thinking was to either move the engine forward or remove it completely. It was suggested by Clint T. that I remove the fenders and move the BODY instead – much easier than moving the engine, and something I can do on  my own without a cherry picker. I also need to move the body back to install the patch panel for the rear panel that is bent up, effectively killing 2 birds with one stone!


Done with blasting – FINALLY

I figured it would be a waste of time to write about the little bit of stuff I got done yesterday. All I got done was disassembling and blasting the w/s frame, painted the fan and installed the valve cover.


I picked up 200# of Black Beauty and 50# of glass beads from Porter Warner first thing this morning, came home and started blasting. 4hrs later the seats were blasted and primed.

I switched out the Black Beauty in the blast cabinet for glass beads. Then I blasted all of the small w/s parts and primed them.

Here is a pic of the parts I have done this week. Next week I’ll have to paint all this stuff!



Next I moved on to the front fuel line. I had originally planned on replacing the line. When I pulled the old one off to measure it, it didn’t look very bad. I blew air through it and go this crap out of it, so I filled it up with Super clean and heated it up with a propane torch – then I let it sit for about 30 minutes.


While that was working I blew out the fuel line from the tank to the tee where the front line fits. Amazingly, only (fairly) clean gas came out! Once I guessed the Super Clean had done its job, I dumped it out (it was dark orange) and washed it out with a garden hose. I filled it up with Super Clean again and let it sit.

I grabbed my spare carb and went to install it, but thought it looked a little rough. Since I had glass beads in the cabinet, I taped it up and cleaned her up!

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After that, I taped off the top and painted the base gloss black, then I removed the tape and sprayed the whole carb with gloss clear to keep it shiney! I’ll install it tomorrow along with the tank – and HOPEFULLY get the thing mobile again!

I dumped and washed the fuel line and the Super Clean had barely changed color, so I figured it was clean enough! I blew air through it onto the towel and got a little orange out of it, but not much. HOPEFULLY the fuel system is clean now!

I installed the line back on the Jeep with the cleaned up shut off valve – I should’ve blasted it while I had the cabinet set up! I think I am going to install a primary disposable filter right after the shutoff and replace the one before the carb. After I am SURE that all of the lines and tank are clean, I will install the correct flex line from the shutoff to the pump and install a new hard line from the pump to the carb, omitting the disposable filter.



Plan for tomorrow is to install the carb, 2 disposable filters and tank. I really need to finish up the rear interior before I install the tank though.


New exhaust installed


I spent 4hrs removing/installing the exhaust. Spent an hour making an exhaust hanger for the muffler and modifying the other hanger because the exhaust pipes are smaller than the one that was on it (I am guessing it was NOS pipe – the original hanger fit it).







I had to modify this hanger that I made for the center pipe to use as the muffler hanger since that one was missing.


Here is the exhaust I pulled out. The center pipe looked to be an NOS unit – just kinked at the axle bend. I guess they did this when they were installing the gigantic car muffler. They used bailing wire as the muffler hanger. One thing I can say though – it was quieter with that muffler (although it was 3x the size).


I put the valve cover back on and installed the plugs and wires. Fired it up and STILL SKIPPING!


I backed it back in the tent and cleaned up – I’ve had enough for this week! Hopefully I’ll be able to figure it out next time I’m off.

As I was laying in bed this morning, I had an epiphany. Something didn’t look right when I was troubleshooting yesterday. I put some work cloths on and went back out to check.

The plug wires were installed in the correct firing order, BUT this distributor rotates COUNTER clockwise – so it was firing as 1,2,4,3! I fired it up and although it was running smoother, it still wasn’t right.

Next, I hooked up a vacuum gauge and loosened the distributor. I started with 14in vacuum. I adjusted the timing for highest vacuum, then adjusted the carb – 16in. I repeated the process until the highest I could get was almost 18in vacuum. It was running a LOT better, but still not RIGHT. I took a test drive up the driveway and back – all I can say is it still needs work. Still not drive able. Next step will be putting my spare carb back on to see if that helps.

That’s all for this week off. Making baby steps, but at least I’m not just crawling!



My week off has ended – happy with my progress on the M38a1 this week!

I like the way I listed the progress yesterday, so I am going to stick with that format for a while.

Today I primed the fuel line, hooked up the fuel pump, installed a fuel filter, test drove while running from the fuel pump, checked plugs/points/rotor/cap, checked the parking brake, checked the gauges, stripped and painted the rear hubs/drums and switched the rear tires/wheels.

First: I installed a 2′ section of fuel line onto the hard fuel line after the shut off valve and hung it over the fender. Next, I stuffed a rag into the filler neck to keep the air pressure from escaping. I used my air hose to pressurize the fuel tank to push gas through the new fuel line through the rubber line hanging over the fender. Once fuel was coming out of the rubber line, I shut the shut off valve – the easy way to prime that line! No leaks were observed and I’m guessing the in tank fuel filter is clean!

Second: I was curious about the stock military fuel pump since it seemed to be pulling (as shown by the vacuum gauge). So I hooked up a temporary nipple on the pump inlet and installed a short section of rubber fuel line from the shut off nipple to the fuel pump nipple.


At the point where the previous owner cut the hard line going to the carb (for some reason it was cut where it curved going over the valve cover), I installed the 2′ section of rubber hose and ran it over the fender again. I cranked the engine with the ignition off – gas was flowing very quickly. So I guess the military pump is good! I checked the oil level and will keep an eye on that to make sure that the pump isn’t dumping gas into the oil because of a bad diaphragm. Since it was pumping, I installed a short piece of rubber hose, a filter and another short hose to connect to the carb nipple.


I took a test drive and it seemed to have enough gas to run the whole time, so I guess the fuel system is sorted until I get my new flex fuel line. I am going to leave the fuel filter on for a while in case some of the left over crap in the fuel line breaks loose.

Second: I pulled the plugs/checked the rotor and cap. The plugs were covered with soot – running too rich with that electric fuel pump I guess.


I cleaned and gapped them. The gaps were set VERY tight – .020″! Not to mention they were the wrong plugs and one of the electrodes was broken! I replaced the broken one and gapped the rest – reinstalled them. Fired it up and it still had a skip. Next I pulled the cap. The rotor had some carbon tracking on the edge of the electrode, so I cleaned it off. The cap also had some carbon tracking around all of the posts, so I cleaned them.


While I was in there, I noticed that it already had the pointless ignition upgrade installed!


I fired it back up – still has a skip. I guess the only other thing it could be is the plug wires. I guess I’ll put my spare set on to check that the next time I’m off. I did notice that there is an exhaust leak – sounds like it is coming from the exhaust manifold.

Third: I crawled underneath to adjust the parking brake. No luck there – no adjustment left on the rod and the shoes look to be VERY thin! Guess I’ll have to either get them re lined or buy new ones.

Forth: I checked the gauges. The oil pressure is working. Fuel is a 12v, so I couldn’t check it. Volt meter wasn’t working. Temp wasn’t working.

For the volt meter, I polarized the generator since it has been sitting a while. That involved disconnecting the generator to regulator cable, inserting a jumper in the “B” hole (lower left – it’s marked), and touching the starter hot post until you see a small spark. I fired her back up – it still wasn’t showing a charge. So I put the multimeter across the batteries – it WAS charging (28.5v). I tapped on the gauge and it jumped up to show a charge! Gauge is sticking!

For the Temp meter, I followed the testing procedure (I will email it to you if you need it). I disconnected the wire to the sender. I connected the Pos multimeter lead to the sender and the Neg to ground. I noted the Ohm reading. I started the engine – as it warmed up, the Ohms DECREASED. This tells me that the sending unit is GOOD. I went inside and pulled the gauge cluster. I connected a jumper to the terminal from the sending unit and grounded it. I turned on the ignition switch and nothing happened. The needle is SUPPOSED to jump to full scale and back full left when the switch is turned off. This tells me that the gauge is bad. I confirmed this by pulling the gauge out of my other Jeep and hooking it up.

The Oil pressure gauge is working. I had a spare Fuel gauge, but it has Douglas connectors. I hooked it up temporarily to test that the fuel sending unit works. It does – the fuel gauge jumped to 1/4 tank.

Last thing I did: I switched wheels/tires. I checked the wheels on my other Jeep and found one wheel/tire (the spare) was the newer replacement (with a flat on the center section where it meets the rim). I pulled it off. Next, I checked my M100 – it also had one newer wheel, so I pulled it off. I pulled the rear M151 wheels off of the Jeep. While I had the wheels off, I figured I might as well go ahead and strip/paint the hubs and drums. So I scraped and wire brushed until they were fairly clean. I pulled the hub caps and cleaned them and the lug nuts with the wire wheel on the bench grinder. I sprayed them with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer and let that dry. Then I mixed up some Behr 24052 and diluted with water and sprayed everything. After that dried to touch (only took about 30 min), I wire brushed the wheel studs and put the new tires/wheels on. Now it’s looking better!

20170118_163103Too bad the hubs are OD 24052  and the wheels are OD 24087 – I’ll take care of that little discrepancy at a later date. It’s looking more like a military Jeep now! I guess I need to blast those front ones to even it out.

I went ahead and put the windshield and hood back on to get them out of the way while I’m away at work.

I guess it’s time to order some parts so I’ll have something to do the next time I’m off!

Almost done with the fuel system

Today I installed the gas tank, fuel sender, pickup, seat, made seat bottoms, freed up the pedals, bled the brakes a little, set up a redneck fuel tank, took a few test drives, washed the engine bay and installed the new fuel line – a jam packed 5 hrs of work!

First things first: Gas tank install. I put the foam strips down in the gas tank (they should be rubber strips) and set the tank in place – simple enough. Then I realized I had a little bit of water in the tank, so I had to take it back out to tilt it enough to vacuum it out. Then I put it back in. The old lines will have to be replaced – the canvas loom is rotten on both of them, not to mention the lines look like crap!

Next up : Install the pickup and sending unit. I didn’t have the correct gaskets, so I used black RTV sealant and let it sit for a few minutes before installing. One thing that I forgot to do is chase the threads in the tank, so some of the screws wouldn’t go all the way in (plus they were worn out Philips screws). When I put the sending unit in, I clocked it in the wrong direction, so when I pull the seat back out to re clock it, I will chase the threads and put new, correct screws back in. After I put the sending unit back in, I put the tank strap on and tightened her in. Then I put the seat in.


Third: Free up the pedals. They were all bound up with old grease – I couldn’t even push any new grease through the zerks. I replaced them and I still couldn’t get any in. So I pulled them back out, sprayed PB Blaster in the holes and worked the pedals until they were moving fairly easy. Then I put the zerks back in and was able to get some grease in them. While I was underneath, I realized that the brake pedal return spring was hooked around the shaft and not the pedal arm, so I fixed that problem too.

Forth: I realized I needed something to sit on if I was going to drive this thing today! So I found a couple of small pieces of plywood and cut them to 18″x15″, marked the holes from the seat frames, drilled them and bolted the bottoms down. It will do for now! I just need to paint them OD.


Fifth: Bleed the brakes. Not that simple by yourself! I tried to hook up my power bleeder for the deuce, but it just wouldn’t fit in the tight space. So I rigged up something with the power bleeder that gave it a little pressure, but leaked everywhere. I got a little fluid from the back brakes and left front, but not the right front. I had a little bit of pedal though.

Sixth: Redneck gas tank. I took a 1 gallon gas can, inserted a 5/16″ fuel hose in the spout (which was a perfect tight fit), and slid the hose over the 5/16″ nipple I installed a couple of days ago for the funnel. This provides a decent gravity feed to the carb and lasts a LOT longer than the funnel!


Seventh: Wash the engine bay. I drove over to the other side of the house (because I don’t have a water line at my shop) where I sprayed the engine compartment down with a heavy concentration of Purple Power, let it sit for about 5 minutes and then washed it off. Surprisingly, It barely even touched the built up gunk on the engine, axles and skid plate area! I guess I’ll have to come up with something else to clean it up.

Eighth: Test drives. After washing the engine compartment, I drove up the driveway and tested 2wd, 4wd high and 4wd low – everything seems to work fine. It was still idling high, so I pulled up to the shop and adjusted the carb a little. It has a pretty rough idle, so I’m going to have to check the plugs, cap and points to figure that out.

Youtube link of it idling (sortof)

When I started to pull away from the shop it started to spin (it is a slight uphill grade), so I shifted into 4wd high and it pulled right off. Later, I saw that the posi in the rear IS working because I have 2 wheel marks in the mud! Those slick tires sure can spin.


Finally, I pulled up to the level area where I work on my cars so that I could get to work on that fuel line. I bought a 5/16″x72″ piece of steel fuel line at Advance Auto the other day. I pulled the old one out – it was connected to the brake line with quite a few clips. I used the old one to bend the new one to the basic shape – come to find out it was the perfect length and was bent right the 1st time! That’s a first for me! I got both ends hooked up and everything clipped back together in no time.

Well, the time was up for the day – I had to go pick my daughter up at school and take her to Tae Kwon Do practice. I backed her into her new (temporary) home for the night. I have one more day off and it looks like good weather, so we’ll see if I can either get the original fuel pump going or the civilian pump installed and pumping tomorrow!



Got some REAL paint on it!

I ran to Home Depot and had some paint mixed up for it today. The word on the Steel Soldiers forum is that Behr Marquee exterior latex (yes, I said LATEX) is a great paint for military vehicles! It takes a little longer to completely harden, but includes primer and sets up HARDER the enamel. Another plus is that you can pick it up the same day instead of having to wait a week and pay shipping and Hazmat fees! It is a little pricey, but still cheaper than ordering. I got him to mix up a gallon of FS#24052.

While I was out, I stopped by Big Lots and picked up some generic Oxyclean and Scotchbrite pads, and Advance Auto to get the 5/16″x 72″ fuel line.

Once home, I removed the sending unit and pickup from the gas tank. Then I mixed up the Oxyclean (1 scoop/gal) and poured it into the tank until it was full to the top (it held 17gal). I also put the sending unit and pickup in an old cooler and covered it with the same mixture. Within 15 minutes, you could see the mixture moving and bubbling in the tank and cooler.

You can see what ethanol gas does when it sits up for a long time (the sending unit and pickup) – turns to a bubble gum consistency!

Here’s a video of the Oxyclean mixture working. We’ll see how that turns out tomorrow. There was gum in the bottom of the tank also.

Oxyclean tank cleaning method

While that was working, I went ahead and started chipping and sanding on the driver side floor area of the Jeep. I wanted to get that painted before I put the tank back in. I sprayed about 3 good coats on it. The latex turned out pretty good in my opinion. I had a little trouble getting the gun adjusted to spray the thick paint. I ended up thinning the paint with 10% water and turning the air pressure up to get it to lay down enough paint to get the semi gloss look. I also went ahead and painted the driver seat and tank strap. I’ll paint the tank tomorrow.

After about 3 or 4 hrs, I pulled the sending unit out and cleaned it with a scotchbrite pad and scraped the paint off of the cap. I also checked the ohms to make sure it worked and replaced the rubber connector. The float wouldn’t even move before the bath! Then I pulled the pickup out – it cleaned up fairly easy with the scotchbite and scraper. THEN I pulled the filter! Man, that tube was SOLID gum and so was the inside of the filter! That stuff is a PITA to clean – I ended up rodding the tube out and soaking everything in carb cleaner. After about an hour working on that, it was clean and ready to install when the tank is clean.

So that’s it for today. Tomorrow the plan is to dump the tank and get it painted. Hopefully the gum in the bottom will be dissolved or at least soft enough to scrape out easily. If not, I guess I’ll have to take it to a radiator repair shop to dip. Once it is cleaned I can install the sending unit and pickup and paint it. Then I can install the tank and new fuel line.