Rear hub, diff service and thermostat

I went out to work on the Jeep this morning. I started with the hub. Pulled the puller out of the box and NEITHER of the castings would work! One was wide enough but not deep enough – the other was deep enough but not wide enough to reach across the studs. So I stopped working on that and moved on.

Next, I installed the rear diff cover and filled it with GL4 and friction modifier. Here’s a crappy pic.

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Next I moved to the thermostat. I made a gasket for it because nobody had one in stock – then installed it.

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Then I moved to the front diff. I pulled the cover, cleaned the surfaces, blasted the cover and cleaned the bolts and tags.

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I scuffed the shocks and set everything up for paint. I sprayed a couple of coats on them and let them dry while I went to town to return the hub puller kit.

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When I got back I installed the front diff cover and filled it. After that, I installed the driver side shock and put the wheel back on the passenger side. Then I filled the radiator and went for a drive. I went up and down the driveway until the temp started moving, then went back to the shop and refilled the radiator. The temp had gotten up to about 190, so I let it idle until it leveled back out. I drove back up the driveway and around the field and it stayed at about 170deg the whole time (it is a 160deg thermostat).

A few things I noticed while driving were 1) the clutch needs adjusting (or at least I HOPE that’s all it needs!), 2) I need to get the body mounting bolts tightened down and 3) The temp, oil pressure, volt meter (if you tap on it) and speedometer (it jumps around – I need to clean and lube the cable) all work now – the fuel gauge isn’t hooked up yet.

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Working on rear brakes and diff

Today I worked on the rear brakes. The driver side drum came off easily. It was full of sand and mud.

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I removed the brake shoes and wheel cylinder and cleaned the backing plate and axle seal retainer up by scraping with a screwdriver and putty knife and cleaning with a wire brush. Then I sprayed brake cleaner on it and cleaned it real well. I cleaned the hardware with the wire brush and brake cleaner. I didn’t order new shoes beforehand, so I cleaned the old ones up until I get the new ones (that I ordered tonight) – they have about 1/8″ of lining left. I installed a new wheel cylinder and all of the cleaned parts.

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While I had easy access, I removed the plug in the axle and installed a grease zerk – gave the bearing 6 pumps of grease and reinstalled the plug. I went ahead and removed the shock while it was within reach – one less thing to have to do when I install the new shock tomorrow!

I moved on to the passenger side. This time I couldn’t get the drum to budge – AT ALL! The drum screws came out with a little heat and the big screwdriver with a wrench on the shaft, but the drum wouldn’t budge! I tried the rubber hammer, ball peen hammer, applied PB Blaster and heat – still NOTHING! I guess the only way to get it off is to pull the hub tomorrow so that I can get to it from the back.

I moved on to the rear differential. I pulled the cover and drained the oil – black and runny! I sprayed the rest of the can of brake cleaner on the carrier and gears to clean it up a little, then pulled the drain plug to drain the cleaner. There was about a 1/4″ of sludge on top of 1/4″ of hard sludge in the bottom of the case, so I scraped all that crap out and wiped it clean with a rag. I sandblasted the cover and gave it a couple of coats of 24052 and left it to dry overnight.

The last thing I had time for was to pull the top hose and thermostat housing so that I can install a new thermostat tomorrow. Judging by the look of the coolant (all water, I’m guessing), I need to drain the radiator and block too – and maybe flush it too! It was a nice orange color! Wile I had the thermostat out, I heated it up with a propane torch – just guessing, but it was prob around 250deg before it started opening!

I went online before I went out to the shop this afternoon to order a thermostat (Stant 160deg for $8.99). I had a coupon for 25% off at Advance Auto waiting on me, so I went ahead and ordered the rear shocks (since they had Monroe in stock for $25 ea) too. They were asking $62 for brake shoes, so I didn’t order them there. I saved about $15 ordering online and got another $.87 back through eBates! I went by and picked the parts up after church tonight. While I was there, I bought 2 cans of brake cleaner and 2 bottles of limited slip friction modifier (one for each axle). The bottles are 4oz that treats 2qt of oil – the differentials hold about 1 3/4qt, so I figure a bottle each. This is the brand they had, so I bought it.

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Kindof pricey at $7.99/bottle, but at least it doesn’t have to be changed often! If I would have thought ahead a little, I would’ve ordered the brake cleaner and this online and saved another $8! While I was at Advance, I rented a hub puller for the passenger side – VERY PRICEY at $100

I left Advance and went to O’Reilly to see if they had brake shoes – they did. They were $30 after tax, but I had to order them – and they wouldn’t be in until late tomorrow afternoon (16:00) – AFTER I finish working on the Jeep for the day! I guess I’ll just get the drum pulled and everything cleaned up and ready to install the new shoes after I get them – I will have to tear the driver side back down too. But at least I will have all new brakes all around after I finish them! BTW – the rear drums looked OK (not GREAT, but OK).

After I finish with removing and cleaning the passenger side brake, I will reinstall the diff cover and refill it (I have a 5gal can of military gear oil, so I didn’t need to buy any of that). I might as well go ahead and remove the front cover, clean it, blast the cover, paint it and reinstall/refill it while I’m doing them and I have the materials. Then I can flush the radiator and block, install the new thermostat and check to see if it is working correctly.

 

 

Getting it running again

Yesterday, I was doing a step by step for troubleshooting found on http://www.willysmjeeps.com. I found that I had a voltage drop of .6v from battery voltage to the #12 connector at the distributor.

So I decided to start cleaning connectors and connections. I started with the battery clamps. I cleaned them on the bench grinder wire wheel. I cleaned the cable ends with a wire brush.  Once clean, I reassembled using an anti corrosion grease.

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Next, I moved on to the battery to frame ground wire. I disassembled it and cleaned everything with a wire brush and wire wheel and reassembled with anti corrosion grease.

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While I was cleaning electrical stuff, I moved to the starter pedal contacts. I pulled all of the wires and the contacts off. I disassembled it and cleaned everything inside and out.  The insulation pads were in good condition. I repainted it, reassembled and reinstalled using anti corrosion grease.

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When I retested, I was only .1v off of battery voltage! Success!

Next, I moved on to the timing. I ended up removing the original distributor and installed my spare (with points) because I was getting an irregular spark. When I screwed the #12 wire in, the insulation on it crumbled. So I ended up replacing a 6″ section of the wire with a new one.

 

As it turns out,  the timing was about 30deg off! No wonder it was spitting and popping and wouldn’t start most of the time! In order to get enough rotation of the distributor,  my only choice was to re index the distributor – which means re indexing the oil pump too.

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An easy way to do this (by yourself) is to

  1. Put the engine at #1 TDC,
  2. Loosen the 3 bolts holding the oil pump in and drop the pump out of the block about 3″. You might have to use something to keep the pump from falling out completely.
  3. Go around to the other side and turn the rotor until it is pointing at the lower middle dist cap screw hole, which is about #1. You might want to turn the dist body until it has enough swing to adjust the timing also.
  4. Go around to the driver side and try to push the pump back in the pump. It will prob come to about 1/4″ of the block. At this point, I wedged the wooden handle of a wire brush between the pump body and the steering gear to put a little pressure on it (if you have a helper to push it, it would be that much easier).
  5. Go around to the passenger side and turn the rotor until the pump and dist shaft align and the pump pops up to the block. This might not happen though – if you don’t achieve engagement by rotating from 9 o’clock to 4 o’clock, try again. If it engages (and is pointing at the #1 position), stop here. If not, continue to the next step (#6) below.
  6. Go back around to the oil pump and drop it out of the block until you can get to the gear.
  7. Rotate the gear clockwise by about 2 teeth. and go back to step #4.
  8. Repeat the process until you end up with the rotor pointing at #1 with the oil pump seated.
  9. Bolt the oil pump back to the block.
  10. Make sure that the rotor turns when the engine is rotated.
  11. WIth the timing pointer set at 10deg BTDC, rotate the dist body until the points spark.
  12. Tighten the dist down so that it is hard to turn (but can be turned to adjust the timing.
  13. Hook up your timing light and adjust the timing to 10deg BTDC.
  14. Lock down the distributor.

Note: To hook up a timing light, you can use one of 2 methods: 1) Military timing light adaptor screwed onto your spark plug wire and onto the plug – clamp the pickup around the adaptor wire and hook the power up to ONE battery. Or 2) Remove the military waterproof wire and plug and install a civilian wire into the dist cap and a civilian plug – hook the timing light up as above.

Once I got the distributor set right, I turned on my gravity feed fuel tank (2 gallon gas can sitting on the cowl with a fuel line running to the carb.) and tried to start her up. After about 5 seconds of choke, she fired right up and idled pretty good! I shut her down and had a beer to celebrate.

After that, I went back out and fired her back up for an idle check.

Next, I re installed the valve cover, air cleaner lid and vent lines. Then I added water to the radiator (I will put antifreeze in it after I KNOW everything is right) and fired her back up so I could run her until warm. I checked the timing and adjusted the carb. THEN I realized that I never plugged the vacuum tee! I plugged that and had to readjust the carb again. This thing runs smoother and quieter than my original Jeep! I jumped in and pulled her out of the tent and let her idle out there for a couple of minutes until it started raining, so I backed it back in. It feels pretty powerful too!

I guess the next project will be to get the brakes bled so I can take her for a test drive!

 

Found another problem

I was going to remove the radio noise suppressor capacitor (at the power plug on the side of the distributor)  and do the bypass mod. As I was trying to unscrew the connector I noticed this:

MAJOR melted wire!  The insulation was melted away and the bare wire was touching the connector body. I also noticed that the connector shell had arced to the outside connector.  Maybe this is the cause of it skipping? Surely it wasn’t helping the matter!

I disassembled the #12 wire connector, cut off the female butt connector then  desoldered it. Next, I cut the #12 back far enough to get back to good wire and insulation and resoldered the female end back on.

I reassembled the connector and hooked it back up – PROBLEM SOLVED!

I tried to start the Jeep and all I got was spitting and spuddering and a few backfires through both the carb AND exhaust.  After some troubleshooting, I decided it was a timing problem,  so I loosened the distributor and adjusted it a little.  It fired right off,  but died just as quickly. I adjusted the distributor and tried again a same thing.  Tried again and again. I think it is flooded real good and not wanting to run at all now.  I’ll try again Saturday – I got off of work this morning and I’m TIRED!  At least I found a problem and fixed it, whether that was the main problem or not.

Exhaust manifold stud work

I decided to unbolt the body and shift it around a little in order to get a straight shot at the broken stud. I was able to get it moved just enough to accomplish this. Check out this sketchy support system:

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I ended up drilling out the old stud because the easy out wouldn’t move it. After I drilled it to size, I tapped it out with a 3/16-16NC tap. Then I used my angle air grinder with a course scotch brite pad on it to polish the mounting surface.

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I took the manifold into the shop and used my die grinder with a carbide burr to smooth and polish the inside of the ports then used the angle grinder with a 40 grit disc to clean the gasket surface. Maybe this will boost horsepower by .1%, lol.

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My rear end patch panel arrived today from Classic Enterprise. I think I am going to just replace the bent up part on the left, about halfway across the top of the pintle arch.

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I’m guessing this panel is for a CJ5 since it doesn’t go all the way across and (I guess) holes for tailgate hinges. Anyhow, the pintle arch and halfway across to the tail light is the only part I need to fix on my rear panel.

Working on exhaust manifold

 

 

I had some free time yesterday afternoon, so I thought I would get back on the Jeep. I pulled the spare tire off my other M38a1 (that I had stolen for the Denton rally in April) and installed it back on the Jeep with the new lug nuts I bought from QTM Parts.

Next quick job was to pull the exhaust manifold off and replace the 3 stripped studs in the center. I started removing the nuts and noticed that there was no rear one – maybe there was a bolt installed there at one time instead? Once I removed the manifold (which was easy enough), reality hit me! The rear stud was broken off FLUSH with the block!

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I went to the shop and cracked open a cold one to ponder my dilemma. After I thought about it for a few minutes I decided to go ahead a remove the other 4 studs while thinking about possible fixes for the back one. Might as well replace them all while the manifold is off.

They came out easy enough using the double nut trick. I also found out that the front and top center studs protrude into the water jacket – evidenced by the stream of water shooting out of them when I removed them! I inserted the old studs back in them to stop the flow.

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I finished my beer and decided to try drilling a hole and using an Easy Out. The problem here is that there is about 3″ between the rear of the block and the firewall. The only way you can drill here is at an angle. Stupid me thought that this would work – even knowing that the Easy Out needs to be installed into a hole drilled STRAIGHT into the stud, not crooked! I center punched the stud, drilled a pilot hole, enlarged the hole and installed the Easy Out – it wouldn’t turn of course. I heated the area and sprayed it with PB Blaster a couple of times – still wouldn’t turn.

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After messing around with it for 30 minutes I put my tools away and had another beer – have to think about it before trying again the next time I’m off.

I posted a request for ideas on the Facebook M38a1 page tonight and got a few replies that pointed me in the opposite direction from where I was heading. The only thing I was thinking was to either move the engine forward or remove it completely. It was suggested by Clint T. that I remove the fenders and move the BODY instead – much easier than moving the engine, and something I can do on  my own without a cherry picker. I also need to move the body back to install the patch panel for the rear panel that is bent up, effectively killing 2 birds with one stone!

 

Done with blasting – FINALLY

I figured it would be a waste of time to write about the little bit of stuff I got done yesterday. All I got done was disassembling and blasting the w/s frame, painted the fan and installed the valve cover.

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I picked up 200# of Black Beauty and 50# of glass beads from Porter Warner first thing this morning, came home and started blasting. 4hrs later the seats were blasted and primed.

I switched out the Black Beauty in the blast cabinet for glass beads. Then I blasted all of the small w/s parts and primed them.

Here is a pic of the parts I have done this week. Next week I’ll have to paint all this stuff!

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Next I moved on to the front fuel line. I had originally planned on replacing the line. When I pulled the old one off to measure it, it didn’t look very bad. I blew air through it and go this crap out of it, so I filled it up with Super clean and heated it up with a propane torch – then I let it sit for about 30 minutes.

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While that was working I blew out the fuel line from the tank to the tee where the front line fits. Amazingly, only (fairly) clean gas came out! Once I guessed the Super Clean had done its job, I dumped it out (it was dark orange) and washed it out with a garden hose. I filled it up with Super Clean again and let it sit.

I grabbed my spare carb and went to install it, but thought it looked a little rough. Since I had glass beads in the cabinet, I taped it up and cleaned her up!

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After that, I taped off the top and painted the base gloss black, then I removed the tape and sprayed the whole carb with gloss clear to keep it shiney! I’ll install it tomorrow along with the tank – and HOPEFULLY get the thing mobile again!

I dumped and washed the fuel line and the Super Clean had barely changed color, so I figured it was clean enough! I blew air through it onto the towel and got a little orange out of it, but not much. HOPEFULLY the fuel system is clean now!

I installed the line back on the Jeep with the cleaned up shut off valve – I should’ve blasted it while I had the cabinet set up! I think I am going to install a primary disposable filter right after the shutoff and replace the one before the carb. After I am SURE that all of the lines and tank are clean, I will install the correct flex line from the shutoff to the pump and install a new hard line from the pump to the carb, omitting the disposable filter.

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Plan for tomorrow is to install the carb, 2 disposable filters and tank. I really need to finish up the rear interior before I install the tank though.