Brakes and test drive!

I moved my Side by side and lawnmower out of the shop to make room for the Jeep. But before I could pull the Jeep into the shop, it needed brakes (because the shop is on a slope). I pulled it out of the tent do that I could get under it in the open to examine the parking brake. I figured that would be sufficient to get the Jeep into the shop so that I could work on the brakes.

Once underneath, I noticed that the parking brake lever was real loose and there was no adjustment (threads) left on the rod. My only option was to disassemble the parking brake assembly to see what was going on with it. After wrestling with the outer shoe cotter pin for a while, I finally got it all apart and took it to the shop for a cleaning. This is what I found:


YEP, that’s metal – not brake lining! The outer shoe was paper thin too.

It just so happened that I had ordered a pair of NOS shoes a few months back for my other Jeep that I had yet to install, so I used the new inner shoe and the old outer one. I reassembled it on the Jeep and tested it out – still noisy, but at least it held!

I pulled the Jeep into the shop using the parking brake and low range and got to work on the brakes. First off was to reinstall the brake light switch – no problem there. Next, I added fluid to the master cylinder – it had all leaked out because it didn’t have a switch installed. I pumped the pedal slowly a few times, then wedged a piece of 2×4 between the pedal and fuel tank. Then I went to the front wheels and cracked bleeders – got a little air out of them. I went to the back and bled them. I repeated the process until I had a little bit of a pedal.

I couldn’t stand it any longer – I had to take a test drive!

I was impressed! The engine was smooth, as well as the transmission and transfer case. The transfer case levers were pretty stiff at first, but as I worked them, they operated easier. The clutch needs adjusting as well as the brakes need more attention. The only gauge that worked was oil pressure – the speedometer was jumping around.

I went back to the shop to start on the list of items I need to work on. I pulled the gauge cluster off and hooked up the NOS temp gauge I bought at Denton to the sending unit wire – it went up to about 140deg. So I removed the old gauge and painted the new one. Once it was dry, I installed it. I hooked up the ignition wire to the spare volt gauge I had – and it worked. This gauge doesn’t have a hold down bracket, so I couldn’t install it. I was done with the gauge cluster for the day.

Next I jacked up the rear end and put a jack stand under the driver side so I could change out the rear brake flex line. Pretty straight forward and quick fix. The old one was pretty ratty!


I took another test drive (without bleeding the rear brakes again). The temp gauge took FOREVER to start moving! Once it did start, it only went up to 140deg even after about 10 minutes of driving around the field! When I got back to the shop, I used the temp gun to get an actual temp – the water temp at the filler was about 134deg! Weird! The head temp was only about 205deg. The lower radiator hose read about 90. I’m going to have to investigate that.

Next, I checked my lights. No headlights, the right front bo marker light didn’t work, rear running lights didn’t work but the bo marker lights did. No dash lights work. I wiggled the levers and the harness connector – no change. So I grabbed my NOS replacement and hooked the connector to it. Viola! – headlights, rear running lights, rear bo marker lights and driver front bo marker worked! The dash lights and front passenger bo marker still don’t (I think the dash lights are bulbs and the marker light is a ground issue).

The last thing I did was to clean the sand off the top of the shift tower as well as remove a bunch of silicon the P.O. put under the shift tower cover. I vacuumed a bunch of blasting media from all around the inside of the tub and toolbox area and the sand from the top of the shifter tower. The I re installed the shift tower cover.

The plan for tomorrow is to install a second inline filter on the fuel line and hook the fuel line back up to see if it will run right from the tank. After that, I might pull the rear drums to inspect and clean the brakes and replace the wheel cylinders.

It’s nice to see both of them in the shop side by side!



Getting it running again

Yesterday, I was doing a step by step for troubleshooting found on I found that I had a voltage drop of .6v from battery voltage to the #12 connector at the distributor.

So I decided to start cleaning connectors and connections. I started with the battery clamps. I cleaned them on the bench grinder wire wheel. I cleaned the cable ends with a wire brush.  Once clean, I reassembled using an anti corrosion grease.


Next, I moved on to the battery to frame ground wire. I disassembled it and cleaned everything with a wire brush and wire wheel and reassembled with anti corrosion grease.


While I was cleaning electrical stuff, I moved to the starter pedal contacts. I pulled all of the wires and the contacts off. I disassembled it and cleaned everything inside and out.  The insulation pads were in good condition. I repainted it, reassembled and reinstalled using anti corrosion grease.


When I retested, I was only .1v off of battery voltage! Success!

Next, I moved on to the timing. I ended up removing the original distributor and installed my spare (with points) because I was getting an irregular spark. When I screwed the #12 wire in, the insulation on it crumbled. So I ended up replacing a 6″ section of the wire with a new one.


As it turns out,  the timing was about 30deg off! No wonder it was spitting and popping and wouldn’t start most of the time! In order to get enough rotation of the distributor,  my only choice was to re index the distributor – which means re indexing the oil pump too.


An easy way to do this (by yourself) is to

  1. Put the engine at #1 TDC,
  2. Loosen the 3 bolts holding the oil pump in and drop the pump out of the block about 3″. You might have to use something to keep the pump from falling out completely.
  3. Go around to the other side and turn the rotor until it is pointing at the lower middle dist cap screw hole, which is about #1. You might want to turn the dist body until it has enough swing to adjust the timing also.
  4. Go around to the driver side and try to push the pump back in the pump. It will prob come to about 1/4″ of the block. At this point, I wedged the wooden handle of a wire brush between the pump body and the steering gear to put a little pressure on it (if you have a helper to push it, it would be that much easier).
  5. Go around to the passenger side and turn the rotor until the pump and dist shaft align and the pump pops up to the block. This might not happen though – if you don’t achieve engagement by rotating from 9 o’clock to 4 o’clock, try again. If it engages (and is pointing at the #1 position), stop here. If not, continue to the next step (#6) below.
  6. Go back around to the oil pump and drop it out of the block until you can get to the gear.
  7. Rotate the gear clockwise by about 2 teeth. and go back to step #4.
  8. Repeat the process until you end up with the rotor pointing at #1 with the oil pump seated.
  9. Bolt the oil pump back to the block.
  10. Make sure that the rotor turns when the engine is rotated.
  11. WIth the timing pointer set at 10deg BTDC, rotate the dist body until the points spark.
  12. Tighten the dist down so that it is hard to turn (but can be turned to adjust the timing.
  13. Hook up your timing light and adjust the timing to 10deg BTDC.
  14. Lock down the distributor.

Note: To hook up a timing light, you can use one of 2 methods: 1) Military timing light adaptor screwed onto your spark plug wire and onto the plug – clamp the pickup around the adaptor wire and hook the power up to ONE battery. Or 2) Remove the military waterproof wire and plug and install a civilian wire into the dist cap and a civilian plug – hook the timing light up as above.

Once I got the distributor set right, I turned on my gravity feed fuel tank (2 gallon gas can sitting on the cowl with a fuel line running to the carb.) and tried to start her up. After about 5 seconds of choke, she fired right up and idled pretty good! I shut her down and had a beer to celebrate.

After that, I went back out and fired her back up for an idle check.

Next, I re installed the valve cover, air cleaner lid and vent lines. Then I added water to the radiator (I will put antifreeze in it after I KNOW everything is right) and fired her back up so I could run her until warm. I checked the timing and adjusted the carb. THEN I realized that I never plugged the vacuum tee! I plugged that and had to readjust the carb again. This thing runs smoother and quieter than my original Jeep! I jumped in and pulled her out of the tent and let her idle out there for a couple of minutes until it started raining, so I backed it back in. It feels pretty powerful too!

I guess the next project will be to get the brakes bled so I can take her for a test drive!


Found another problem

I was going to remove the radio noise suppressor capacitor (at the power plug on the side of the distributor)  and do the bypass mod. As I was trying to unscrew the connector I noticed this:


MAJOR melted wire!  The insulation was melted away and the bare wire was touching the connector body. I also noticed that the connector shell had arced to the outside connector.  Maybe this is the cause of it skipping? Surely it wasn’t helping the matter!

I disassembled the #12 wire connector, cut off the female butt connector then  desoldered it. Next, I cut the #12 back far enough to get back to good wire and insulation and resoldered the female end back on.


I reassembled the connector and hooked it back up – PROBLEM SOLVED!

I tried to start the Jeep and all I got was spitting and spuddering and a few backfires through both the carb AND exhaust.  After some troubleshooting, I decided it was a timing problem,  so I loosened the distributor and adjusted it a little.  It fired right off,  but died just as quickly. I adjusted the distributor and tried again a same thing.  Tried again and again. I think it is flooded real good and not wanting to run at all now.  I’ll try again Saturday – I got off of work this morning and I’m TIRED!  At least I found a problem and fixed it, whether that was the main problem or not.

A little work on lights

I received a care package from Saturn Surplus last week that included a 3 bulb left rear light repair kit and an M35 front wiring harness (which will hopefully be converted to an M38a1 harness soon).

So today (my first day off) I started by removing the left rear light. Once I got it in the shop I soaked it down with PB Blaster and put some heat to it. The screws wouldn’t budge and I ended up messing both of the heads up. PLUS, there was NO WAY I would’ve been able to get the 3 smaller screws in the bottom out! I ended up just trashing that light.


So then I pulled my spare one out of the parts bin and went ahead and installed it on the Jeep. No work needed – it looked brand new inside!

I decided to go ahead and install another left tail light on the right side so that I would have 2 brake lights and (hopefully, when I get the M35 wiring harness installed) turn signals. Funny thing is – I had 4 wires on the right side! I am going to have to do some investigating to figure out what they are all for.

So anyway, I pulled the right tail light off and took it into the shop. All 5 screws came right out – the inside of this one looked good too. The guts came out in 1 piece.


wp-1486690783217.jpgNow getting the new guts out back in was another story – an exercise in patience for sure! I fed the wires through the back of the housing and started the 3 small screws into the plate and rubber grommet – it was a pain trying to get to them AND pushing down while trying to get them started! I succeeded after about 10 minutes. Next up was getting the lower bulb socket bracket installed – fairly easy, just had to find 2 more 8-32 screws and washers. Last was the upper bracket with 2 bulbs. After trying to start one screw for a couple of minutes, I realized that neither of the upper holes were tapped! So I had to look for a tap (luckily I had one) and work around the bracket and wires to get these holes tapped. Once that was done everything went together without a hitch. I now have a new second left tail light for a grand total of $16.50 + shipping!


I took it back to the Jeep and bolted it in. I used my multimeter to check the feed wires on the main harness because you couldn’t read the circuit tags on the wires. I turned on the marker light and matched it up to the lower bulb. Then I turned on the Service drive and matched it up to the upper right bulb. There were 2 extra wires that had caps on them – I don’t know what for. I am hoping I can clean the circuit tags well enough to find out. Anyhow, I hooked up the 3rd wire to the brake light bulb. I used a board to hold the pedal down while I checked for brake lights – didn’t have any on either side. I had B.O. marker lights and Service drive lights though!


Another funny (not funny, just odd) thing – when I went to switch back to B.O Marker from Service Drive, I happened to catch something out of the corner of my eye – the damn headlights were on! Why are they burning now when they wouldn’t before? Both high and low beams work – very brightly I might add (they are 12v). Anyhow, lights are sorted now – except for the brake lights which is probably the switch.

I moved on to the instrument panel spider next (I received ANOTHER care package from Saturn Surplus today with a spider and 10 male and 10 female Packard connectors). I laid the instrument panel face down on a towel on the bench and checked the manual for a diagram to hook up the spider. Once I got that put on I went back to the Jeep and started scraping circuit tags to figure out what hooked up where. After about 20 minutes I had everything except the speedometer hooked up and flipped the switch. I still have some things to sort out on that tomorrow! Not everything worked – the lights and High Beam indicator worked. The fuel gauge went to full. Temp didn’t move. Oil pressure went up as I was cranking the engine. Volt gauge is screwed up (I had to put the old one back in).

So that’s it for today. I don’t really have a plan for tomorrow yet, but I’m sure it will involve sorting the instrument cluster wiring and probably rebuilding the bellcrank.

Oh yeah, I placed my next to the last parts order today. I ordered an original spare tire carrier (needs some grinding and cleaning up), a bumperette and grill welting from QTM Parts (Quarter Ton and Military) – he sells a lot on eBay under username wcwfr4. I ordered windshield rubber from Midwest Military. And I ordered windshield bumper welting and pedal draft pads from Ron Fitzpatrick Jeep Parts (off eBay). Except for odds and ends and a trip back to Piedmont to get some used tires, all I have left to buy is interior. I have decided to run used tires for the time being instead of spending $800 on 5 new tires – and I will use the top from my other Jeep if I need one. Got to keep the costs down because I’m trying to pay for this thing as I go along instead of running up the credit card bill!