Bearings and brakes done on front end

I ordered the correct (18590) bearing and (6626s) seal from CARQUEST yesterday – total $27 with tax. I picked them up this morning. I also stopped by Wal-mart to pick up my batteries while I was in town. I had a $200 Wal-mart gift card – reason I bought Ever Start batteries.

I bought 2 Everstart Macc 24F batteries because they were only $10 more than the Plus ones. The Maxx have a 3yr free replacement and 5yr warranty and the Plus has a 3yr warranty. The Jeep had Group 24 batteries installed in it when I got it. It was a tight fit, but they DID fit – I like that compared to the 51R batteries in my other a1.


I got home and greased up the new bearing – installed it and the new seal. The hub bore had expanded a little when I pressed in the larger bearing race the other day, so the seal just fell in. I had to hammer on the side of the hub a little to tighten up the fit so that it had to be tapped in with a hammer.

I got everything installed without a problem – installed the larger bearing on the outer hub. This causes the nuts to be at the outer edge of the threads on the spindle, but it DOES fit – hopefully it will help with wear.

I installed the drum and hub cap and gave everything a coat of 24052.


I installed the tires and adjusted the new brakes. All I have left is to do to the front end is to buy/install new shocks, change the pinion seal and change the differential oil now.


I think tomorrow I will install the batteries and try to get her running again so that I can move her back and forth from the carport to the shop when I can work on her.



Working on brakes again

I took my front drums to O’Reilly Auto Parts to get them turned last Sunday. They finally told me on Tuesday that they were “low spec”, but had new ones for $45 ea – so I picked them up on the way home from work. I ordered 4 new wheel cylinders from QTM Parts (figured since both of the fronts were bad, the back ones would be too. Plus they were  much cheaper buying the set) and new shoes for the front from Advance Auto online ($20 after online savings AND I got eBates cash). SOooo – I had the parts I needed to work with when I got off for my week off.

I started yesterday by cleaning the backing plate. The red paint was in pretty good condition, so I didn’t repaint it. I installed the new wheel cylinder, cleaned all of the springs and hardware and installed the new pads. I’m glad I took pics of how everything came apart.


Next I grabbed a new drum and compared it to the old one. These are Brake Best Select Premium from O’reilly. They are from China of course. The overall measurements are basically the same, but the drum profile is different and there is more surface for a larger shoe – 2″ maybe?

I cleaned the whole drum with brake cleaner to get the light coat of oil off of everything. I had to back the adjustment cams all the way off to get the drum on, but it fit well. The countersink for the mounting screws was wrong and they didn’t fit flush. I sprayed on a coat of 24052 to make it pretty.


TIP:  Don’t do like I did and hammer the cap on – bending it up of coarse. I learned that the hub socket fits perfectly over the hub cap and allows you to seat it without bending the cap!

On to the driver side

I disassembled the driver side brakes last week, so all I had to do was pull the hub and reassemble – or so I thought.

First, the hub was HELL to get off! I had to PRY it off with the handle of the hammer (wood) and tap on it with the hammer. Once I got it off I found out why. The seal was basically destroyed, letting water in to rust up the bearings. It’s funny (not really), but the driver side bearings FELT better than the passenger side – and the brakes actually worked (and I was able to bleed the wheel cylinder) on that side. When it was pulled apart, all the parts were WORSE than the passenger side!



Once completely disassembled and the backing plate and hardware cleaned, I had to paint the backing plate and rear of the hub.

The bearings were too pitted to re-use, so I proceeded to look for a set – on Saturday, in Chester SC, for a 53yo Jeep. Yeah, like that was going to happen! Well, I typed in 1965 Jeep CJ5 like I always do when looking for parts. I actually found a PAIR of bearings in Rock Hill – about 20 miles away. I ordered them online (Advance Auto). National Bearing A-35 was the part #. I couldn’t find the seal on the website. I went to pick the bearings up anyway – surely they had a seal!


I showed up to get the parts – they looked to be the right size. She searched for a seal – no go. Had to order it – would be there in 2 days! On a whim, I went to Autozone – same thing, had to order, but could have it the NEXT DAY. But I had already ordered a $10 seal from Advance. I went to O’Reilly next door – same thing, next day. OF COURSE I would order it from the place that would take 2 days!

I went home and installed the bearing races – at least I could get that much done. I drove the old ones out and mic’ed them. The new ones were very slightly larger than the old – and the bearing cones were a little taller. I pressed the races in and everything looked good.


When I layed the seal in the hub, IT WAS LOOSE. I am guessing that the larger diameter bearing race expanded the hub. I am hoping that I didn’t ruin the hub! I like the idea of the larger bearing surface on the outside, so I will install one on the other hub as well so that I don’t waste money on these bearings. I will drive the inner race out to see if the hub was ruined today.

With that EPIC FAIL out of the way, I soldiered on and decided to at least get the brakes installed on the driver side. That was easy enough, except for that return spring – that thing is STIFF!

Before pic:




When I got inside after dark, I decided to research why I got the wrong bearings. I found this:

FRONT Axle, outer bearing:
Figure 10-4, Key DD & EE
Quantity: 2 each per side
Bearing: 705423, Current #: Timken 18590
Race: 706836, Current #: Timken 18520

From g503 forums

I saw the Timken # on the bearing – I just figured that A-35 crossed to this one – WRONG! The National # is the same.

I also found this on the same post:

Seal, Oil, Front Hub:
Figure 10-4, Key CC
Quantity: 2 each
H013-83-29731, Current #: National 6626-S

Guess what? I ordered the WRONG seal too!

Come to find out, starting in 1964 or 65, the hub must have changed. The earlier hubs are shorter and smaller inner diameter than the 1965 that I was looking up for all of my other parts. I changed my search to 1963 Jeep CJ5 and BOOM – there is the 18590 bearing #! Live and learn.

Like I said, I am hoping that I can still use the larger bearings on the outer end of the hub – they have about 1/8″ larger bearing surface and there is no seal for it to interfere with, so theoretically it should work there – and I won’t lose $30 in the process! I am going to have to order a replacement bearing for the inner hub.

Today I will be removing/rebuilding/installing the driver side leaf spring.




Front end work today

Today I pulled the hub/drum for cleaning, repacking, replacing the messed up stud and rebuilding the wheel cylinder.

The drum came off easily and the hub was pretty easy too. I took them in the shop and cleaned the old grease out of the hub. There was some chrome specs in the grease. I’m not sure if that came from the cage or the bearing itself – the turned freely and looked pretty good.


I repacked the bearings and hub then reinstalled on the Jeep. The wheel cylinder was a little more difficult. The cups were stuck and corroded in the cylinder and had to be driven out.



After honing the cylinder and installing new seals and spring, I inserted the caps. One of them was really tight, so I sanded and smoothed it until it moved a little better. I reinstalled the outer seals and bolted it back in the Jeep. Hopefully it will work fine – if not, I will be going through all this again.

The next job was to get started on rebuilding the front springs. I jacked it up and put jack stands under the frame right behind the spring, then jacked up the axle a little to take the pressure off the spring. I removed the lower shock nut, then the u bolt nuts (that required aero kroil and heat). The front pivot bolt was next – easy enough. The rear shackle nut required Kroil and heat also. Once removed from the Jeep, I took the spring pack to the shop, installed a c clamp to hold it together and removed the center bolt. Then I removed the bolts from the clamps. Lastly, I released the c clamp and separated the spring leaves.


You can see the broken top leaf.


I used a wire brush and a welding pick hammer to clean the leaves and remove the flaking rust.



This is how much rust I removed:


Next, I cleaned the leaves with paint thinner.


Lastly, I brushed on 2 coats of rust converter as the primer before reassembly. Lookin MUCH better! The new top leaf is in front – I cleaned and painted it a few months back when I received them (I bought 2 because BOTH of my front top leaves are broken!


I will have to buy new hardware to put the spring pack back together because it was all rusted pretty bad. Grade 8 center bolt 5/16″ x 2 5/8″ and grade 5 clamp bolts 5/16″ x 2 3/8″. I will buy 5/16″ ID tubing and cut my own spacers.


Beautiful day for working on the Jeep!

I went ahead and removed the drag link first thing this morning. No since in doing the rest of the steering system without cleaning and painting the drag link, right? There was so much undercoating and grease/dirt mixture on the clamp screws holding the dirt guards on that you couldn’t tell where the screw head was! Once I chipped that away I was able to remove the guard and work at getting the cotter pin out of the end cap. I ended up cutting it with side cutters to get it out. The end cap came out easily.


I used the trusty old bench grinder and wire wheel to remove all of the undercoating, dirt, grease and paint from everything. Next, I had to get all of that old dry grease out of the inside. I used the propane torch to heat it the ends up enough to liquefy it, then used rags and brake cleaner to clean it up. I sprayed a coat of primer on it and moved on to the next project while it dried.

I started cleaning the frame and quickly realized that it was going to be too much of a job scraping this stuff off! I fired up the pressure washer and went to work. An hour and a half later, I had gone over everything from the engine compartment to the whole frame to the underside of the engine/tranny/transfer.


I hand painted a coat of OD on the drag link and moved on to painting the frame around the drag link and steering areas where I have been working. That led into painting the inner fenders and firewall. While I was going, I went ahead and painted the front frame rails. But why stop there – I still had a few hours of daylight and 75deg weather? I ended up painting the frame all the way back to the rear shocks! I didn’t paint the cross members though – maybe tomorrow.


I still had a little while before dark, so I went to put the drag link back in. I forgot how the pieces fit, so I had to Google it. Here is the diagram I used from Willysmjeeps:


It didn’t take too long to get it all back together – much improved steering response now!


Last thing I did was to change out the disposable fuel filter. Once I did that, it fired right up and actually idled almost normally! I drove up the driveway a little ways and came back – wasn’t running great. When I stopped, it started loading up and cut off. I guess I need to change the carb. I might end up taking the tank out and getting it professionally cleaned. Of course that means I will have to repaint the tank!

Tomorrow, I guess I might try to finish painting the frame and cross members and who knows what else!



Bellcrank and tie rods – done

I was able to get out to the Jeep for a few hours this afternoon. I slid under the Jeep and what do you know – the bolt was already loose! I used the impact to turn the bolt while I pried the bellcrank down until it came off. It was pretty nasty!

I used a punch to drive the old seal and 2 sets of needle bearings out of the bellcrank and cleaned it up with a rag. Next, I used the wire wheel on the bench grinder to clean it up. Lookin’ pretty good!


I put the new needle bearings in the freezer while I heated the bellcrank – the bearings were a tight fit. Once heated and cold, a little pounding on a socket is all it took to get them in. I installed the new seals the same way. Lastly, I installed the specialty upper seal and felt ring in the bellcrank. The new bearing sleeve and bolt installed, I put it back in the frame bracket. Guess what?! The damn new bolt was too short! I ended up removing the bushing from the old bolt with heat and installing the new bushing with heat (it was a tight fit). I primed and pain ted it. When it was dry enough to handle, I put it back in the bracket and tightened it down – PERFECT FIT! Nice and tight with no play!

Next, I used the wire wheel on the tie rods and cleaned them up nice and neat. I sprayed them with primer. While the primer was drying, I wire brushed the frame crossmember and primed it.


When everything was dry enough to handle (about 30 minutes), I put it back together and called it a day – I feel good about what I accomplished in 3.5hrs!


Haven’t decided on tomorrow’s project. I am planning on stopping by the parts store for a couple of filters. Maybe I’ll get that changed and put the other carb on. I could pull the drag link out, clean it up and paint it. Might work on the rest of the interior – supposed to be in the 70s again tomorrow, so I know I’ll be outside doing something for sure!


Got some REAL paint on it!

I ran to Home Depot and had some paint mixed up for it today. The word on the Steel Soldiers forum is that Behr Marquee exterior latex (yes, I said LATEX) is a great paint for military vehicles! It takes a little longer to completely harden, but includes primer and sets up HARDER the enamel. Another plus is that you can pick it up the same day instead of having to wait a week and pay shipping and Hazmat fees! It is a little pricey, but still cheaper than ordering. I got him to mix up a gallon of FS#24052.

While I was out, I stopped by Big Lots and picked up some generic Oxyclean and Scotchbrite pads, and Advance Auto to get the 5/16″x 72″ fuel line.

Once home, I removed the sending unit and pickup from the gas tank. Then I mixed up the Oxyclean (1 scoop/gal) and poured it into the tank until it was full to the top (it held 17gal). I also put the sending unit and pickup in an old cooler and covered it with the same mixture. Within 15 minutes, you could see the mixture moving and bubbling in the tank and cooler.

You can see what ethanol gas does when it sits up for a long time (the sending unit and pickup) – turns to a bubble gum consistency!

Here’s a video of the Oxyclean mixture working. We’ll see how that turns out tomorrow. There was gum in the bottom of the tank also.

Oxyclean tank cleaning method

While that was working, I went ahead and started chipping and sanding on the driver side floor area of the Jeep. I wanted to get that painted before I put the tank back in. I sprayed about 3 good coats on it. The latex turned out pretty good in my opinion. I had a little trouble getting the gun adjusted to spray the thick paint. I ended up thinning the paint with 10% water and turning the air pressure up to get it to lay down enough paint to get the semi gloss look. I also went ahead and painted the driver seat and tank strap. I’ll paint the tank tomorrow.

After about 3 or 4 hrs, I pulled the sending unit out and cleaned it with a scotchbrite pad and scraped the paint off of the cap. I also checked the ohms to make sure it worked and replaced the rubber connector. The float wouldn’t even move before the bath! Then I pulled the pickup out – it cleaned up fairly easy with the scotchbite and scraper. THEN I pulled the filter! Man, that tube was SOLID gum and so was the inside of the filter! That stuff is a PITA to clean – I ended up rodding the tube out and soaking everything in carb cleaner. After about an hour working on that, it was clean and ready to install when the tank is clean.

So that’s it for today. Tomorrow the plan is to dump the tank and get it painted. Hopefully the gum in the bottom will be dissolved or at least soft enough to scrape out easily. If not, I guess I’ll have to take it to a radiator repair shop to dip. Once it is cleaned I can install the sending unit and pickup and paint it. Then I can install the tank and new fuel line.