Some finishing touches

UPS showed up today with my top and strap kit from WeeBee Webbing.

I got excited and threw the top and straps on – they looked GREAT!

I took a drive up the driveway and around the field – she ran GREAT! After a little while, I took another drive – and she started acting up halfway up the driveway!

I took a break and decided to change the trans and transfer oils. I bought a transfer pump from Advance Auto a few months ago in anticipation of changing these fluids. I have a 5 gal pail of 80w90 military gear oil that I have been using to fill up a quart bottle – this is a PITA! I spent $15 on the transfer pump, although Harbor Freight had the same one for $7! This is A VERY good investment when it comes to changing or adding fluids to an M38a1! It took me about 20 minutes to change fluids!

I have one more day to work on the Jeep before the rally/show. Even though it’s acting up after a short drive, I don’t think I’m going to try to figure out what’s going on with it. I will spend tomorrow fixing small stuff.

Thursday will be spent pressure washing the trailer, washing the Jeep and getting stuff together for the show.


Brakes finally done! 

I received my 3 leg hub puller last week, but just got around to using it today. Setup was simple – attach the legs to the puller disk, bolt the legs to the hub using the wheel studs and lug nuts, grease the screw and hammer on the “dog bone” a few times.


Then tap on the puller bolt a few times to release the tension. Repeat until the hub or hub/drum assembly pops off. It took me about 2 minutes for mine to pop loose – amazing how easy some tasks are when you have the right tools!



Once I got the assembly off, I literally had to beat on the center of the hub with the drum on the concrete floor to separate the hub and drum! It was really stuck.

The backing plate, shoes and hardware were caked with sand and mud just like the other side was. The shoes were pretty much toast!

20171203_122152309391892.jpgI cleaned everything up and reassembled with the new shoes I ordered through Advance Auto and the new wheel cylinder I got from QTM Parts. Reassembly was MUCH easier without the hub in the way!
Once I put the hub back on, I realized that I had lost the axle nut and washer! I looked everywhere. The only thing I can figure is that I had left it on the frame or somewhere and took it for a test drive – it is SOMEWHERE in the field I guess! I went ahead and tapped the hub all the way on with a deep socket. I coated the area that contacts the drum, as well as the drum screws, with anti seize and reinstalled the drum. 

Next, I stole the axle nut off my other jeep and installed it to make due until I can order another one. 

I adjusted the new shoes and went inside to get my daughter to help bleed the brakes. We got all of the old fluid out of the system and got all but one wheel cylinder bled. The right rear had a clogged hard line. 

When removing it, the nut at the tee on the axle housing was frozen. I finally ended up using vise grips on the nut and a 9/16″ wrench to hold the tee to get it loose. One removed from the jeep, I tried to blow it out with air pressure. After a few tries, the pressure pushed the blockage out. I proceeded to spray some PBblaster through the line to clean it.

Once cleaned, I reinstalled it and bled the lines again – by myself – with the help of a makeshift pedal holder.
I took it up the driveway for a test drive. It did pretty good, but I think I need to adjust the shoes a little more because the wheels won’t lock up on a dirt driveway. 

Next I adjusted the clutch free play to 1 1/4″ and went for drive. It still won’t stall the engine starting off in 2nd gear. I guess I need a new clutch – and, more than likely, a new rear seal. I am getting stuff done, but it feels like one step forward,  3 steps back! Also, the clutch cable fork was attached using a bolt. It had 7 washers on the outside, but DID have a hole drilled and a critter pin installed in the end! I should’ve taken a picture of they one! I cut down another S.S. bolt, drilled a hole and rounded the head on the lathe and installed it- one more bubba mod fixed correctly! 

Another thing to note for this week. I won an auction for an M762 trailer. It  is the same chassis as the M416 trailer, but with a flat bed instead of a box. I could only pick it up on Friday, after lunch. So since this Friday was the only one I had off,  I decided to drive down, 212 miles, to pick it up. I got everything together for the recovery and left bright and early Friday morning. 95 miles into the trip, my right front brake locked up and ended the journey! I rigged the caliper so it wouldn’t work and limped back home with my tail between my legs. Still trying to figure out how to pick it up before the 10 days (pickup time) is up.

So, what should I do next? I have a couple more days that I can work on it this week. I think the mechanical is pretty much sorted out (except for replacing the clutch), so I guess I need to move on to either body or electrical.

Rear hub, diff service and thermostat

I went out to work on the Jeep this morning. I started with the hub. Pulled the puller out of the box and NEITHER of the castings would work! One was wide enough but not deep enough – the other was deep enough but not wide enough to reach across the studs. So I stopped working on that and moved on.

Next, I installed the rear diff cover and filled it with GL4 and friction modifier. Here’s a crappy pic.


Next I moved to the thermostat. I made a gasket for it because nobody had one in stock – then installed it.

20171116_1059051562190074.jpg     20171116_1100391376697362.jpg

Then I moved to the front diff. I pulled the cover, cleaned the surfaces, blasted the cover and cleaned the bolts and tags.


I scuffed the shocks and set everything up for paint. I sprayed a couple of coats on them and let them dry while I went to town to return the hub puller kit.


When I got back I installed the front diff cover and filled it. After that, I installed the driver side shock and put the wheel back on the passenger side. Then I filled the radiator and went for a drive. I went up and down the driveway until the temp started moving, then went back to the shop and refilled the radiator. The temp had gotten up to about 190, so I let it idle until it leveled back out. I drove back up the driveway and around the field and it stayed at about 170deg the whole time (it is a 160deg thermostat).

A few things I noticed while driving were 1) the clutch needs adjusting (or at least I HOPE that’s all it needs!), 2) I need to get the body mounting bolts tightened down and 3) The temp, oil pressure, volt meter (if you tap on it) and speedometer (it jumps around – I need to clean and lube the cable) all work now – the fuel gauge isn’t hooked up yet.

Working on rear brakes and diff

Today I worked on the rear brakes. The driver side drum came off easily. It was full of sand and mud.


I removed the brake shoes and wheel cylinder and cleaned the backing plate and axle seal retainer up by scraping with a screwdriver and putty knife and cleaning with a wire brush. Then I sprayed brake cleaner on it and cleaned it real well. I cleaned the hardware with the wire brush and brake cleaner. I didn’t order new shoes beforehand, so I cleaned the old ones up until I get the new ones (that I ordered tonight) – they have about 1/8″ of lining left. I installed a new wheel cylinder and all of the cleaned parts.


While I had easy access, I removed the plug in the axle and installed a grease zerk – gave the bearing 6 pumps of grease and reinstalled the plug. I went ahead and removed the shock while it was within reach – one less thing to have to do when I install the new shock tomorrow!

I moved on to the passenger side. This time I couldn’t get the drum to budge – AT ALL! The drum screws came out with a little heat and the big screwdriver with a wrench on the shaft, but the drum wouldn’t budge! I tried the rubber hammer, ball peen hammer, applied PB Blaster and heat – still NOTHING! I guess the only way to get it off is to pull the hub tomorrow so that I can get to it from the back.

I moved on to the rear differential. I pulled the cover and drained the oil – black and runny! I sprayed the rest of the can of brake cleaner on the carrier and gears to clean it up a little, then pulled the drain plug to drain the cleaner. There was about a 1/4″ of sludge on top of 1/4″ of hard sludge in the bottom of the case, so I scraped all that crap out and wiped it clean with a rag. I sandblasted the cover and gave it a couple of coats of 24052 and left it to dry overnight.

The last thing I had time for was to pull the top hose and thermostat housing so that I can install a new thermostat tomorrow. Judging by the look of the coolant (all water, I’m guessing), I need to drain the radiator and block too – and maybe flush it too! It was a nice orange color! Wile I had the thermostat out, I heated it up with a propane torch – just guessing, but it was prob around 250deg before it started opening!

I went online before I went out to the shop this afternoon to order a thermostat (Stant 160deg for $8.99). I had a coupon for 25% off at Advance Auto waiting on me, so I went ahead and ordered the rear shocks (since they had Monroe in stock for $25 ea) too. They were asking $62 for brake shoes, so I didn’t order them there. I saved about $15 ordering online and got another $.87 back through eBates! I went by and picked the parts up after church tonight. While I was there, I bought 2 cans of brake cleaner and 2 bottles of limited slip friction modifier (one for each axle). The bottles are 4oz that treats 2qt of oil – the differentials hold about 1 3/4qt, so I figure a bottle each. This is the brand they had, so I bought it.

oil additive

Kindof pricey at $7.99/bottle, but at least it doesn’t have to be changed often! If I would have thought ahead a little, I would’ve ordered the brake cleaner and this online and saved another $8! While I was at Advance, I rented a hub puller for the passenger side – VERY PRICEY at $100

I left Advance and went to O’Reilly to see if they had brake shoes – they did. They were $30 after tax, but I had to order them – and they wouldn’t be in until late tomorrow afternoon (16:00) – AFTER I finish working on the Jeep for the day! I guess I’ll just get the drum pulled and everything cleaned up and ready to install the new shoes after I get them – I will have to tear the driver side back down too. But at least I will have all new brakes all around after I finish them! BTW – the rear drums looked OK (not GREAT, but OK).

After I finish with removing and cleaning the passenger side brake, I will reinstall the diff cover and refill it (I have a 5gal can of military gear oil, so I didn’t need to buy any of that). I might as well go ahead and remove the front cover, clean it, blast the cover, paint it and reinstall/refill it while I’m doing them and I have the materials. Then I can flush the radiator and block, install the new thermostat and check to see if it is working correctly.



Brakes and test drive!

I moved my Side by side and lawnmower out of the shop to make room for the Jeep. But before I could pull the Jeep into the shop, it needed brakes (because the shop is on a slope). I pulled it out of the tent do that I could get under it in the open to examine the parking brake. I figured that would be sufficient to get the Jeep into the shop so that I could work on the brakes.

Once underneath, I noticed that the parking brake lever was real loose and there was no adjustment (threads) left on the rod. My only option was to disassemble the parking brake assembly to see what was going on with it. After wrestling with the outer shoe cotter pin for a while, I finally got it all apart and took it to the shop for a cleaning. This is what I found:


YEP, that’s metal – not brake lining! The outer shoe was paper thin too.

It just so happened that I had ordered a pair of NOS shoes a few months back for my other Jeep that I had yet to install, so I used the new inner shoe and the old outer one. I reassembled it on the Jeep and tested it out – still noisy, but at least it held!

I pulled the Jeep into the shop using the parking brake and low range and got to work on the brakes. First off was to reinstall the brake light switch – no problem there. Next, I added fluid to the master cylinder – it had all leaked out because it didn’t have a switch installed. I pumped the pedal slowly a few times, then wedged a piece of 2×4 between the pedal and fuel tank. Then I went to the front wheels and cracked bleeders – got a little air out of them. I went to the back and bled them. I repeated the process until I had a little bit of a pedal.

I couldn’t stand it any longer – I had to take a test drive!

I was impressed! The engine was smooth, as well as the transmission and transfer case. The transfer case levers were pretty stiff at first, but as I worked them, they operated easier. The clutch needs adjusting as well as the brakes need more attention. The only gauge that worked was oil pressure – the speedometer was jumping around.

I went back to the shop to start on the list of items I need to work on. I pulled the gauge cluster off and hooked up the NOS temp gauge I bought at Denton to the sending unit wire – it went up to about 140deg. So I removed the old gauge and painted the new one. Once it was dry, I installed it. I hooked up the ignition wire to the spare volt gauge I had – and it worked. This gauge doesn’t have a hold down bracket, so I couldn’t install it. I was done with the gauge cluster for the day.

Next I jacked up the rear end and put a jack stand under the driver side so I could change out the rear brake flex line. Pretty straight forward and quick fix. The old one was pretty ratty!


I took another test drive (without bleeding the rear brakes again). The temp gauge took FOREVER to start moving! Once it did start, it only went up to 140deg even after about 10 minutes of driving around the field! When I got back to the shop, I used the temp gun to get an actual temp – the water temp at the filler was about 134deg! Weird! The head temp was only about 205deg. The lower radiator hose read about 90. I’m going to have to investigate that.

Next, I checked my lights. No headlights, the right front bo marker light didn’t work, rear running lights didn’t work but the bo marker lights did. No dash lights work. I wiggled the levers and the harness connector – no change. So I grabbed my NOS replacement and hooked the connector to it. Viola! – headlights, rear running lights, rear bo marker lights and driver front bo marker worked! The dash lights and front passenger bo marker still don’t (I think the dash lights are bulbs and the marker light is a ground issue).

The last thing I did was to clean the sand off the top of the shift tower as well as remove a bunch of silicon the P.O. put under the shift tower cover. I vacuumed a bunch of blasting media from all around the inside of the tub and toolbox area and the sand from the top of the shifter tower. The I re installed the shift tower cover.

The plan for tomorrow is to install a second inline filter on the fuel line and hook the fuel line back up to see if it will run right from the tank. After that, I might pull the rear drums to inspect and clean the brakes and replace the wheel cylinders.

It’s nice to see both of them in the shop side by side!


Bearings and brakes done on front end

I ordered the correct (18590) bearing and (6626s) seal from CARQUEST yesterday – total $27 with tax. I picked them up this morning. I also stopped by Wal-mart to pick up my batteries while I was in town. I had a $200 Wal-mart gift card – reason I bought Ever Start batteries.

I bought 2 Everstart Macc 24F batteries because they were only $10 more than the Plus ones. The Maxx have a 3yr free replacement and 5yr warranty and the Plus has a 3yr warranty. The Jeep had Group 24 batteries installed in it when I got it. It was a tight fit, but they DID fit – I like that compared to the 51R batteries in my other a1.


I got home and greased up the new bearing – installed it and the new seal. The hub bore had expanded a little when I pressed in the larger bearing race the other day, so the seal just fell in. I had to hammer on the side of the hub a little to tighten up the fit so that it had to be tapped in with a hammer.

I got everything installed without a problem – installed the larger bearing on the outer hub. This causes the nuts to be at the outer edge of the threads on the spindle, but it DOES fit – hopefully it will help with wear.

I installed the drum and hub cap and gave everything a coat of 24052.


I installed the tires and adjusted the new brakes. All I have left is to do to the front end is to buy/install new shocks, change the pinion seal and change the differential oil now.


I think tomorrow I will install the batteries and try to get her running again so that I can move her back and forth from the carport to the shop when I can work on her.


Working on brakes again

I took my front drums to O’Reilly Auto Parts to get them turned last Sunday. They finally told me on Tuesday that they were “low spec”, but had new ones for $45 ea – so I picked them up on the way home from work. I ordered 4 new wheel cylinders from QTM Parts (figured since both of the fronts were bad, the back ones would be too. Plus they were  much cheaper buying the set) and new shoes for the front from Advance Auto online ($20 after online savings AND I got eBates cash). SOooo – I had the parts I needed to work with when I got off for my week off.

I started yesterday by cleaning the backing plate. The red paint was in pretty good condition, so I didn’t repaint it. I installed the new wheel cylinder, cleaned all of the springs and hardware and installed the new pads. I’m glad I took pics of how everything came apart.


Next I grabbed a new drum and compared it to the old one. These are Brake Best Select Premium from O’reilly. They are from China of course. The overall measurements are basically the same, but the drum profile is different and there is more surface for a larger shoe – 2″ maybe?

I cleaned the whole drum with brake cleaner to get the light coat of oil off of everything. I had to back the adjustment cams all the way off to get the drum on, but it fit well. The countersink for the mounting screws was wrong and they didn’t fit flush. I sprayed on a coat of 24052 to make it pretty.


TIP:  Don’t do like I did and hammer the cap on – bending it up of coarse. I learned that the hub socket fits perfectly over the hub cap and allows you to seat it without bending the cap!

On to the driver side

I disassembled the driver side brakes last week, so all I had to do was pull the hub and reassemble – or so I thought.

First, the hub was HELL to get off! I had to PRY it off with the handle of the hammer (wood) and tap on it with the hammer. Once I got it off I found out why. The seal was basically destroyed, letting water in to rust up the bearings. It’s funny (not really), but the driver side bearings FELT better than the passenger side – and the brakes actually worked (and I was able to bleed the wheel cylinder) on that side. When it was pulled apart, all the parts were WORSE than the passenger side!



Once completely disassembled and the backing plate and hardware cleaned, I had to paint the backing plate and rear of the hub.

The bearings were too pitted to re-use, so I proceeded to look for a set – on Saturday, in Chester SC, for a 53yo Jeep. Yeah, like that was going to happen! Well, I typed in 1965 Jeep CJ5 like I always do when looking for parts. I actually found a PAIR of bearings in Rock Hill – about 20 miles away. I ordered them online (Advance Auto). National Bearing A-35 was the part #. I couldn’t find the seal on the website. I went to pick the bearings up anyway – surely they had a seal!


I showed up to get the parts – they looked to be the right size. She searched for a seal – no go. Had to order it – would be there in 2 days! On a whim, I went to Autozone – same thing, had to order, but could have it the NEXT DAY. But I had already ordered a $10 seal from Advance. I went to O’Reilly next door – same thing, next day. OF COURSE I would order it from the place that would take 2 days!

I went home and installed the bearing races – at least I could get that much done. I drove the old ones out and mic’ed them. The new ones were very slightly larger than the old – and the bearing cones were a little taller. I pressed the races in and everything looked good.


When I layed the seal in the hub, IT WAS LOOSE. I am guessing that the larger diameter bearing race expanded the hub. I am hoping that I didn’t ruin the hub! I like the idea of the larger bearing surface on the outside, so I will install one on the other hub as well so that I don’t waste money on these bearings. I will drive the inner race out to see if the hub was ruined today.

With that EPIC FAIL out of the way, I soldiered on and decided to at least get the brakes installed on the driver side. That was easy enough, except for that return spring – that thing is STIFF!

Before pic:




When I got inside after dark, I decided to research why I got the wrong bearings. I found this:

FRONT Axle, outer bearing:
Figure 10-4, Key DD & EE
Quantity: 2 each per side
Bearing: 705423, Current #: Timken 18590
Race: 706836, Current #: Timken 18520

From g503 forums

I saw the Timken # on the bearing – I just figured that A-35 crossed to this one – WRONG! The National # is the same.

I also found this on the same post:

Seal, Oil, Front Hub:
Figure 10-4, Key CC
Quantity: 2 each
H013-83-29731, Current #: National 6626-S

Guess what? I ordered the WRONG seal too!

Come to find out, starting in 1964 or 65, the hub must have changed. The earlier hubs are shorter and smaller inner diameter than the 1965 that I was looking up for all of my other parts. I changed my search to 1963 Jeep CJ5 and BOOM – there is the 18590 bearing #! Live and learn.

Like I said, I am hoping that I can still use the larger bearings on the outer end of the hub – they have about 1/8″ larger bearing surface and there is no seal for it to interfere with, so theoretically it should work there – and I won’t lose $30 in the process! I am going to have to order a replacement bearing for the inner hub.

Today I will be removing/rebuilding/installing the driver side leaf spring.