Ready for paint?

I got out to the shop this morning and checked out my new wheels. 2 of them are in real good condition and the third is bent in a few places (on the back side, so it will be good enough for the trailer that won’t get much use). I guess I still came out alright though – 2 good ones for $60ea and one that is useable for free (that’s the way I’m looking at it anyway). Looks like all they will need is scuffing and painting. None of them are late model wheels, but I guess it really doesn’t matter for a spare.


After checking those out, I got to work wet sanding the red oxide. I started on the cowl, down the passenger side, rear panel, up the driver side and then the hood. I had a big run on the passenger side right behind the door that I wasn’t able to sand out without gouging, so I had to spot prime that area again. The area under the passenger side door turned out great this time.


The driver side sanded out wit no problem areas.


Then I got to the hood! It HAS to be right since this is the biggest area (and most noticeable) on the Jeep. I sanded each section cross hatch, then cleaned and dried it, sanded cross hatch again after I touched up the spots I missed, washed and dried it. Then I came back and sanded (dry) one last time. It came out baby’s butt smooth!


Hopefully ready for paint the next time I’m off on my 7 days!



Still on bodywork

Today, I block sanded the passenger side with 120, then 220 (because that’s what I had). Then I taped the whole passenger and the rear up. I mixed up about 6oz of Rustoleum red oxide with mineral spirits and sprayed the passenger side repair (to cover up the gray primer) and the rear panel.



I still had plenty of red oxide left, so I sprayed over any area that I had sanded down to the metal or gray primer on the rest of the Jeep.


I STILL had plenty left, so I put the hood on saw horses and sprayed it!


Glad to get this done – now I can wet sand one last time tomorrow and (hopefully) have a perfectly smooth body for final paint! Even if it’s not, I won’t be priming again – it’s on to final paint after I wet sand. The passenger side turned out good and I fixed one other spot on the driver side rear quarter (you can see the gray primer in the pic above).

My Father in Law picked up 3 M38a1 wheels from a guy in Fayetteville for me today, so I will have a spare tire for BOTH M38a1s and the M100 trailer. I’ll post some pics of those tomorrow. One more missing piece (or 3) of the puzzle!

Back to the bodywork

It’s cold and rainy in SC today and I just got off work this morning. So after a quick nap, I headed to the shop to work on the Jeep.

I had an idea about using the red oxide primer as a sealer so that I wouldn’t have to prime, sand, then paint. I read the cans (spray bomb) of the Rustoleum 2 in 1 filler primer and the generic red oxide primer. The Rustoleum said you could spray the finish coat as soon as it was dry. The red oxide said to sand 30 minutes after it dried – didn’t say anything about recoating after it dried. So I did an experiment on the rear quarters. I sprayed one quarter with each of the primers – 2 light coats each covered well. When dry, I recoated with 3 light coats of 24052.

The red oxide was completely covered and smooth.

The Rustoleum 2 in 1 was the complete opposite – wasn’t completely covered, rough and lighter color. The camera actually caught dust floating in the air, so this pic isn’t the best.

Looks like I am going to be spraying (testing first) Rustoleum red oxide as a sealer before I paint!

Next I got to work on the passenger side body work. I sanded it back down to the Bondo, cleaned with paint thinner, then spread a 1/4″ thick coat from the fender to the rear wheel well for good measure (to make sure I got everything covered this time). I used the DA to smooth it out, then blocked it with 80grit. I had a few places that weren’t smooth, so I spread some glazing putty over them (plus a little extra for good measure).

While that was drying, I noticed how bad the front frame rails looked, so I sanded them down and repainted them.

I had a little paint left in the spray can, so I painted the top bow brackets that I cleaned and primed the other day.

Once the glazing putty was dry, I blocked it down, added a little more in a couple of places, blocked it again, taped it off and sprayed 3 coats of primer on it. I’ll sand that down tomorrow and prime with red oxide (I have to go buy some – the little bit I had was bad). I think i got the body work right this time! One step closer to final paint!

Last day off this week

Today was my last day off. I think I got a good bit accomplished this week off.

Today, I went to O’reilly and bought a 5/16″x40″ (outside diameter) fuel line and 3/16″x40″ Copperhead brake line. The Copperhead line is a nickel/copper alloy that is easy to bend, won’t kink and stronger than copper line – I thought I would give it a try on my gas tank vacuum line.

When I got home, I made the first two bends of the fuel line and connected it to the elbow under the Jeep. Then I finished the last two bends at the tank. Then I removed the line to cut it to length and re flare the end.


I repeated the process with the vacuum line. Of course, it was as easy to bend as copper line and didn’t start to collapse with a 90deg bend.


I tie wrapped the lines together to help with vibration noise. Hopefully I can find the correct hard line connectors.


Next, I was able to FINALLY get the steering wheel off! I removed the fixture, heated the shaft with a torch, lubed with WD40 Rust Penetrant, reinstalled the fixture and cranked down on the bolt. A little while later, I cranked down a couple more turns and it popped loose!


This pic shows how much pressure I have kept on the fixture for the past 4 days!


After I got the old wheel off, I cleaned the threads and splines and test fit the new wheel. I don’t really like the green, so I might paint it black like the original one.


Next, I painted the military anti theft device and the parking brake handle and bolts. I reinstalled them after they dried.



I finished wet sanding the driver side and rear of the Jeep. I guess next week I will re do the bodywork on the passenger side and get it ready for paint. Then I can put the finish coat of paint on the whole Jeep.


I had a few minutes left to work on it, so I grabbed the top bow brackets, cleaned them with the wire wheel and sprayed them with a coat of primer.


The plan for next Tues-Thurs will be to re do the passenger side bodywork, get it ready for paint and put the final coat of paint on it. Getting that much done next week will put me in a good position to have it ready for the Denton rally at the end of April.

Interior and gas tank paint

I got out to the shop this morning and decided to finish up the gas tank and interior. But before that, I welded up a fixture to (hopefully) help pull the steering wheel. I cut 3 pieces of 1.5″ angle iron and welded them together in a “U” shape. This slides over the steering shaft and a 2 jaw puller attaches to the side angle iron. I drilled a hole through the other side for a bolt – to keep the angle from separating. I put a piece of metal on  of the shaft to keep from messing it up. I tightened the puller down and tapped on the angle iron and puller bolt a few times. I have been spraying the shaft with penetration fluid for a few days.


Next, I reinstalled the l pickup and sender. Once those were installed, I did a little light sanding on the tank and sprayed 2 coats of paint on it. Now it matches the rest of the interior!


I sanded down the front floorboards and gas tank well with 150 grit paper, vacuumed it well and wiped it down with paint thinner. A little taping and masking paper, then I mixed up about 8oz of paint and sprayed 2 heavy coats on the front. I had a little paint left over, so I sprayed a place on the cowl and passenger fender to use it up. Even after the paint felt dry, it was still glossy on the floorboards. Hopefully it will dull down as it cures!


When I was spraying the shifter levers, I remembered the military security device that I had to cut off with a cutoff wheel. I found it in the glovebox.


I welded up the seam on the bottom and the cuts on the end and dressed up the welds – ready for primer, paint and reinstalling after I put the boot on.


There were a few places that didn’t get covered when I painted the interior a couple of weeks ago, so I spray bombed them. Then I reinstalled the rear seat hardware and axe bracket.


There is a decent chance of rain tomorrow, so I’m not 100% sure of what I will be doing. Some of the options are 1)bolt the body back down, 2)install the fuel tank, 3)bend and install new fuel tank fuel line, 4)finish wet sanding, and 5)redo passenger side body work.


Sanding and other prep work

This morning I checked on how the paint turned out. To my surprise, I realized that I had left the hood outside all night and it started raining early this morning! I grabbed it and brought it inside and got it dried off quickly. It looked like it had a bunch of water spots, but overall it looked good. After it sat for awhile, the water spots went away and it looked really good!

Battery update

The battery is coming along. It was up to 14.03v when I first went out this morning. Two cells look good (1 of them looks NEW!), 2 cells look better, and the other 2 a still very sulfated. You can tell that it is working on the 2 worst ones though – it looks like the scale is starting to break up. The other 2 are looking good, but still a little discolored. I’ll report on it again tomorrow.

Sanding and Prep work

The first thing I did was sand the interior. I started with 220 grit and then went back with 320 grit. Looks pretty smooth.


After I finished that, I went back and sanded around the toolbox area after removing the seat support, brake handle and seat hinges.


Next, I sanded down the inside of the toolbox and sprayed a heavy coat of Rustoleum Rust Converter in it. I have always had good luck using this stuff.


While that was drying, I stripped the toolbox lid and found 2 places on the lip that were rusted out and needed to be repaired. So I cut those places out.


Then 20180207_154435655560781.jpg

Then I primed the outside of the toolbox lid. I wasn’t planning on fixing the rust today.


Then I moved on to the battery box lid. The inside was kindof rusty – I guess from the acid fumes? Anyway, I sanded that down with 220 and sprayed it with rust converter.


Next, I prepped and sprayed a whole bunch of small parts with OD 24052. This is only a few of them – I also sprayed the seat support and other stuff.


After the inside of the toolbox was dry, I sprayed it with a heavy coat of OD 24052. I also went ahead and trimmed out around the lip.


And I sprayed the area at the cowl support that I fixed and inside of the passenger side that I patched. I am planning on painting the front of the toolbox and the floor – up to the tunnel.


I had some daylight left, so I decided to go ahead and fix weld the patches into the toolbox lid. Fairly straight forward and easy to do.



I went back and sprayed rust converter around the inside edge to kill a little rust that was there under the seal. I also sprayed the outside to cover the patches.


The last thing I did was spray the inside of the battery box lid with OD 24052 – no pic. I got a lot of little stuff done today, but nothing that made a big change – the little things are what take up most of your time!

Tomorrow, I plan on painting the inside if it warms up enough. I have another project to do until then – replace the bulbs in the shop with LEDs

First coat of OD24052

I have been researching battery charger/maintainer/desulfaters. I decided that the BatteryMinder brand was what I needed. I wanted the #2012, but the local Northern Tool didn’t have them in stack. I settled on the #1500 which plugs directly into an outlet and performs most of the functions of the 2012. It will supposedly maintain 4 batteries at the same time. I have one battery out of my other Jeep that will charge up to 13.4v, but as soon as the charger is unplugged it will drop back to 10.7v. Looking in the cells, you can see 4 of the 6 cells are sulfated. I hooked up the BatteryMinder and it went to work desulfating. After working all afternoon, it had already cleared up one cell! I will let it run until it says it’s done and hopefully it can save the battery – $45 is a LOT cheaper than a $130 battety!



After this battery is saved, I plan on hooking it up to BOTH batteries to maintain them, I sent the company an email to find out how to safely hook them up. I have an idea, but I just want to make sure. If it works well on this Jeep, I’ll buy another one for the other Jeep.

I started sanding the passenger side with 100 grit, which turned into sanding the whole passenger side with 320 grit. Then I sanded the inside of the hood. From there, I decided that I would spray the first coat of paint on the WHOLE Jeep.

I taped and papered everything off so I wouldn’t get paint all over everything. I mixed half a cup of paint (8oz.) to spray it all.  I was able to get ll around the Jeep and paint the underside of the hood with that 8 oz. Then I realized I didn’t paint the front of the driver fender. So I mixed up another 4oz of paint so that I could paint the front of the fender and go back over a few other places. I also painted a second coat on the hinges, filler piece and back seat hardware.

I think the first coat covered pretty well even though I had a few runs.

The inside of the hood is pretty slick.


Still wet – that’s why the fenders are glossy.


Nice to see it all one color!

20180206_1742021267911139.jpgStill have to get the inside done.20180206_1742261846798797.jpg

I was planning on sealing the gas tank today, but that didn’t happen. Tomorrow they are calling for heavy rain all day, so the tank won’t get done again – neither will any more painting. After the paint cures (until the next time I’m off), I’ll wet sand the whole Jeep with 320 and sand down the inside and paint it.