Exhaust manifold stud work

I decided to unbolt the body and shift it around a little in order to get a straight shot at the broken stud. I was able to get it moved just enough to accomplish this. Check out this sketchy support system:

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I ended up drilling out the old stud because the easy out wouldn’t move it. After I drilled it to size, I tapped it out with a 3/16-16NC tap. Then I used my angle air grinder with a course scotch brite pad on it to polish the mounting surface.

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I took the manifold into the shop and used my die grinder with a carbide burr to smooth and polish the inside of the ports then used the angle grinder with a 40 grit disc to clean the gasket surface. Maybe this will boost horsepower by .1%, lol.

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My rear end patch panel arrived today from Classic Enterprise. I think I am going to just replace the bent up part on the left, about halfway across the top of the pintle arch.

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I’m guessing this panel is for a CJ5 since it doesn’t go all the way across and (I guess) holes for tailgate hinges. Anyhow, the pintle arch and halfway across to the tail light is the only part I need to fix on my rear panel.

Done with blasting – FINALLY

I figured it would be a waste of time to write about the little bit of stuff I got done yesterday. All I got done was disassembling and blasting the w/s frame, painted the fan and installed the valve cover.

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I picked up 200# of Black Beauty and 50# of glass beads from Porter Warner first thing this morning, came home and started blasting. 4hrs later the seats were blasted and primed.

I switched out the Black Beauty in the blast cabinet for glass beads. Then I blasted all of the small w/s parts and primed them.

Here is a pic of the parts I have done this week. Next week I’ll have to paint all this stuff!

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Next I moved on to the front fuel line. I had originally planned on replacing the line. When I pulled the old one off to measure it, it didn’t look very bad. I blew air through it and go this crap out of it, so I filled it up with Super clean and heated it up with a propane torch – then I let it sit for about 30 minutes.

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While that was working I blew out the fuel line from the tank to the tee where the front line fits. Amazingly, only (fairly) clean gas came out! Once I guessed the Super Clean had done its job, I dumped it out (it was dark orange) and washed it out with a garden hose. I filled it up with Super Clean again and let it sit.

I grabbed my spare carb and went to install it, but thought it looked a little rough. Since I had glass beads in the cabinet, I taped it up and cleaned her up!

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After that, I taped off the top and painted the base gloss black, then I removed the tape and sprayed the whole carb with gloss clear to keep it shiney! I’ll install it tomorrow along with the tank – and HOPEFULLY get the thing mobile again!

I dumped and washed the fuel line and the Super Clean had barely changed color, so I figured it was clean enough! I blew air through it onto the towel and got a little orange out of it, but not much. HOPEFULLY the fuel system is clean now!

I installed the line back on the Jeep with the cleaned up shut off valve – I should’ve blasted it while I had the cabinet set up! I think I am going to install a primary disposable filter right after the shutoff and replace the one before the carb. After I am SURE that all of the lines and tank are clean, I will install the correct flex line from the shutoff to the pump and install a new hard line from the pump to the carb, omitting the disposable filter.

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Plan for tomorrow is to install the carb, 2 disposable filters and tank. I really need to finish up the rear interior before I install the tank though.

 

Cleaning the gas tank (again)

I pulled the gas tank out and removed the sender and pickup (again).  Then I added about a cup of TSP and a quart of Purple Power cleaner – all I had. I found this method on an online tractor forum. I heated a 3 gal pot of water on my camp stove to about 150 deg and poured it in and sloshed it around. I heated another pot and added that.  I’m sure that boiling water would work even better, but I didn’t have enough propane to heat it for that long. The sending unit float had gas in it,  so I took the one off a spare sending unit I had and replaced it.

While the tank was cleaning itself I went ahead and pulled the grill off the Jeep so that I can blast it the next time I’m off.

So after the tank sat for about an hour, I checked it. It was doing pretty good – fairly clean up to the water level.  The bottom was VERY clean! The pickup filter was pretty clean too, although this pic doesn’t really portray that.  Once I sprayed it off with the water hose it looked pretty good.

 I heated another pot of water while I disassembled the grill for blasting.

The third pot of water brought out up to almost 3/4 full.  I’ll let they work until tomorrow afternoon,  when I’ll dump it and maybe repeat the process until she’s all clean. I’m also thinking about replacing the front fuel line since I have easy access with the grill off and don’t know if that one is plugged with this gelled gas or not. That way I’ll know that everything is clean from the tank to the carb – BEFORE I install my good carb again.  I’m also going to install my new valve cover gasket and maybe paint the engine and radiator/shroud while the grill is out.

Body work

I spent the whole day working on the body. I started out working on the interior and within 15 minutes I was working on the body! I don’t know why I don’t want to work on the interior. When I first went out, I realized that I had left some stripper on the passenger cowl – evidenced by the bubbled up paint. I stripped it with a paint scraper and this is what was revealed.

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Any idea what it means? This is the exact location. The characters are 3/4″ tall.

UPDATE: 2320-835-8319 is the ordinance stock number for the M38a1 – Wes from Willysmjeeps confirmed this.

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I quickly figured out that the DA and 80 grit paper wasn’t going to work. So I grabbed the grinder with a wire wheel. That made quick work of stripping the white and blue paint. I finished up with the DA. I stripped the whole driver side and the right rear quarter before I used up my wire wheel.

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I had to do a little hand sanding where neither of the power tools would reach, but not much. I went ahead and primed all of this and used the DA to strip about a third of the hood. I still don’t know what that white paint is, but 80 grit has a hard time with it! I think I’ll buy some 60 grit to do the rest. I also sanded down the front of the passenger side fender.

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I’m pretty sure I am going to pay somebody to blast the grill – it would take FOREVER to sand it!

It looks like a little more body work than originally thought, but nothing major – other than the rear panel, passenger floor and fenders.

 

Dash installed, other stuff DONE

reI pulled the batteries out, then the battery trays (one wasn’t even bolted in – just laying on the battery box bottom) and the battery box bottom. The trays are pretty much toast, but replacing those will have to wait – more important stuff needs to be done first! I had to soak and heat the screws holding the bottom on – they were holding fast, but finally gave way!

Once out, I wire brushed the heavy rust and sprayed with Rustoleum Rust Converter to stop the rust. When that was dry, I sprayed a couple of heavy coats of Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. When that was dry, I sprayed a couple of coats of Rubberized undercoating on everything. Hopefully, this will keep the rust at bay until I get around to replacing the pans and bottom. The box is in good condition.

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When everything was dry (ish), I re assembled it.

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Next, I started sanding on the floor and shifters. My fingers are RAW! The USMC “security system” on the shifter had to be removed so I can replace the boot, so I ended up cutting that off with a cutoff wheel. I sprayed everything with Rustoleum primer and let it dry before putting 2 coats of paint on it.

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While I was painting, I decided to go ahead and paint my blackout drive light, bracket and data plate. I STILL had paint left, so I scuffed the rear wheels and cleaned them with thinner – used a piece of cardboard as a paint mask and sprayed 2 coats on them.

I got my daughter to help me out installing the dash in the Jeep so I wouldn’t scratch it. That went perfectly. Then I installed the cables, steering shaft support, window latches and ignition switch.

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Lastly, I installed the batteries and lid.

Long day, but feel like I got something accomplished!

 

 

Dash – DONE!

It was still a little cool after church but I got out to the shop anyway. I set my saw horses up and laid out the parts to paint. It took me about 30 minutes to scuff everything down. I poured out 6oz of paint and added about 3oz of warm water – seemed to be thin enough to spray. The last time I sprayed this latex paint in didn’t want to spray – I guessed that it wasn’t thinned out enough, so this time it was going to be thinner. It took me about 30 minutes to get a thin coat on every surface of every part and screws/bolts. By the time I was done with the first coat, the parts were dry enough to handle already! I was actually able to pick them up to inspect for full coverage. I am loving this paint more and more every time I use it! I went ahead and sprayed a heavy coat on top of the first. Second coat took half the time. After a little longer drying period for the heavy coat (prob 30 min), I was able to handle them to inspect for coverage. They all looked good, so I let them sit for another 30 or so minutes and moved them over to the tailgate of the truck.

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Reay for assembly

 

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My “new” pintle hitch, chain plate and USMC stamped gas can carrier – DONE!

 

Next up was re assembling everything. It all went back together without many problems. The Dzus clips were a little tight, so when I was trying to screw one of the panel screws down the screwdriver slipped and scratched the instrument cluster – had to touch that up. I found a couple of edges that didn’t get a second coat, so I had to touch those up too.

 

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Lookin good – just need a new light switch and data plate.

 

It’s not perfect, but a LOT better than before! I HATE that blue paint that seems to be EVERYWHERE! I plan on painting the data plate tomorrow to give the dash the finishing touch. I also need to do some stripping and sealing/painting on the battery box while the dash is out. If there are enough hours in the day, I can start stripping the rest of the interior – hoping to get it painted this week.

Parts needed to complete the dash and interior:

  1. Spider wiring harness for the instrument cluster
  2. Light switch
  3. Weather stripping for glove and tool box doors
  4. New fuel sending unit wire and loom
  5. Seat cushions

My week off has ended – happy with my progress on the M38a1 this week!

I like the way I listed the progress yesterday, so I am going to stick with that format for a while.

Today I primed the fuel line, hooked up the fuel pump, installed a fuel filter, test drove while running from the fuel pump, checked plugs/points/rotor/cap, checked the parking brake, checked the gauges, stripped and painted the rear hubs/drums and switched the rear tires/wheels.

First: I installed a 2′ section of fuel line onto the hard fuel line after the shut off valve and hung it over the fender. Next, I stuffed a rag into the filler neck to keep the air pressure from escaping. I used my air hose to pressurize the fuel tank to push gas through the new fuel line through the rubber line hanging over the fender. Once fuel was coming out of the rubber line, I shut the shut off valve – the easy way to prime that line! No leaks were observed and I’m guessing the in tank fuel filter is clean!

Second: I was curious about the stock military fuel pump since it seemed to be pulling (as shown by the vacuum gauge). So I hooked up a temporary nipple on the pump inlet and installed a short section of rubber fuel line from the shut off nipple to the fuel pump nipple.

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At the point where the previous owner cut the hard line going to the carb (for some reason it was cut where it curved going over the valve cover), I installed the 2′ section of rubber hose and ran it over the fender again. I cranked the engine with the ignition off – gas was flowing very quickly. So I guess the military pump is good! I checked the oil level and will keep an eye on that to make sure that the pump isn’t dumping gas into the oil because of a bad diaphragm. Since it was pumping, I installed a short piece of rubber hose, a filter and another short hose to connect to the carb nipple.

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I took a test drive and it seemed to have enough gas to run the whole time, so I guess the fuel system is sorted until I get my new flex fuel line. I am going to leave the fuel filter on for a while in case some of the left over crap in the fuel line breaks loose.

Second: I pulled the plugs/checked the rotor and cap. The plugs were covered with soot – running too rich with that electric fuel pump I guess.

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I cleaned and gapped them. The gaps were set VERY tight – .020″! Not to mention they were the wrong plugs and one of the electrodes was broken! I replaced the broken one and gapped the rest – reinstalled them. Fired it up and it still had a skip. Next I pulled the cap. The rotor had some carbon tracking on the edge of the electrode, so I cleaned it off. The cap also had some carbon tracking around all of the posts, so I cleaned them.

 

While I was in there, I noticed that it already had the pointless ignition upgrade installed!

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I fired it back up – still has a skip. I guess the only other thing it could be is the plug wires. I guess I’ll put my spare set on to check that the next time I’m off. I did notice that there is an exhaust leak – sounds like it is coming from the exhaust manifold.

Third: I crawled underneath to adjust the parking brake. No luck there – no adjustment left on the rod and the shoes look to be VERY thin! Guess I’ll have to either get them re lined or buy new ones.

Forth: I checked the gauges. The oil pressure is working. Fuel is a 12v, so I couldn’t check it. Volt meter wasn’t working. Temp wasn’t working.

For the volt meter, I polarized the generator since it has been sitting a while. That involved disconnecting the generator to regulator cable, inserting a jumper in the “B” hole (lower left – it’s marked), and touching the starter hot post until you see a small spark. I fired her back up – it still wasn’t showing a charge. So I put the multimeter across the batteries – it WAS charging (28.5v). I tapped on the gauge and it jumped up to show a charge! Gauge is sticking!

For the Temp meter, I followed the testing procedure (I will email it to you if you need it). I disconnected the wire to the sender. I connected the Pos multimeter lead to the sender and the Neg to ground. I noted the Ohm reading. I started the engine – as it warmed up, the Ohms DECREASED. This tells me that the sending unit is GOOD. I went inside and pulled the gauge cluster. I connected a jumper to the terminal from the sending unit and grounded it. I turned on the ignition switch and nothing happened. The needle is SUPPOSED to jump to full scale and back full left when the switch is turned off. This tells me that the gauge is bad. I confirmed this by pulling the gauge out of my other Jeep and hooking it up.

The Oil pressure gauge is working. I had a spare Fuel gauge, but it has Douglas connectors. I hooked it up temporarily to test that the fuel sending unit works. It does – the fuel gauge jumped to 1/4 tank.

Last thing I did: I switched wheels/tires. I checked the wheels on my other Jeep and found one wheel/tire (the spare) was the newer replacement (with a flat on the center section where it meets the rim). I pulled it off. Next, I checked my M100 – it also had one newer wheel, so I pulled it off. I pulled the rear M151 wheels off of the Jeep. While I had the wheels off, I figured I might as well go ahead and strip/paint the hubs and drums. So I scraped and wire brushed until they were fairly clean. I pulled the hub caps and cleaned them and the lug nuts with the wire wheel on the bench grinder. I sprayed them with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer and let that dry. Then I mixed up some Behr 24052 and diluted with water and sprayed everything. After that dried to touch (only took about 30 min), I wire brushed the wheel studs and put the new tires/wheels on. Now it’s looking better!

20170118_163103Too bad the hubs are OD 24052  and the wheels are OD 24087 – I’ll take care of that little discrepancy at a later date. It’s looking more like a military Jeep now! I guess I need to blast those front ones to even it out.

I went ahead and put the windshield and hood back on to get them out of the way while I’m away at work.

I guess it’s time to order some parts so I’ll have something to do the next time I’m off!