It took FOREVER, but I got the had tank sealed! I watched some YouTube videos on using the KBS gas tank sealer system, I saw that the guy had a lot left over. I have a military Jerry can that I bought at a rally a couple of years ago that had a “failed” Kreme sealer in it, so I figured I woulda re seal it with the leftover gas tank sealer that the videos were showing.
I used all of the KBS Kleaner, so I had to go to Wal-Mart this morning to buy some Super Clean and a new propane torch.
When I got home, I got top work cleaning the Jerry can – cleaned it twice with nuts and bolts inside. The Kreme coating was still holding tight – just looked like hell! So I dried it out with the forced air heater. Then I poured in the KBS Rust BLAST that I saved from the gas tank etching. I followed the same procedure as the gas tank for etching.
Once it was dried out using the forced air shop heater, I proceeded to tape up the gas tank for sealing – same as with the cleaning and etching process.
I had a lot of trouble opening the can of sealer. I ended up having to use vise grips to pry the can open!
Once open, you have to mix it up using the stir stick provided. A lot of solids are on the bottom, but you want to avoid shaking, which introduces bubbles into the sealer.
I poured the whole quart into the tank and started rotating the tank. After about 5 minutes of that, I let it sit for a while, then rotated again, let it sit and repeated – for about 30 minutes!
I pulled the tape off the openings to check the progress. The coating went pretty well – only a couple of places that needed to be covered by rotating a little more.
I let it sit for a while, then removed the drain plug – drained out the excess sealer. I had about 1/3rd of a can of sealer after draining.
None of the sealer got up into the filler neck, so I brushed it on there.
I left the gas tank alone and poured the drained sealer into the Jerry can and repeated the process above on it.
After playing with the Jerry can for a while, I went back and rotated, then drained more sealer from the gas tank.
I went back and forth between the tanks- rotting and draining until the sealer set up some and couldn’t be drained anymore. Then I removed the gas tank drain plug and coated the threads with antiseaze and reinstalled. I did the same with the sending unit and pickup plate screws so that the sealer wouldn’t set up on the threads.
Then I moved on and coated the pickup, sending unit, gas cap and Jerry can cap with sealer.
I installed my new stainless filter onto the pickup plate and reinstalled the float on the sending unit.
After doing all of this, I STILL had a 1/4 can of sealer left – I could’ve sealed the other Jerry can I had!
Finally, after HOURS of rotating the tanks so that the sealer wouldn’t “pool”, the sealer set up enough that it wouldn’t run anymore and the thinner areas were dry to the touch.
It looks pretty good and covered well – I think it will work out fine.
AGAIN, this takes A LOT of work and will leave you sore, but my only other option was to ship my tank to a shop to have the RENU process performed, which was going to cost about $400 PLUS shipping! This kit cost $69 delivered and around 9hrs of work.