M762 cleaned up a little

I pressure washed the trailer this afternoon to see how much of the tan CARC I could get off. As it turns out, I am going to have to rake this stuff up once it dries out – there was a LOT of it that came off!

I was able to uncover a few (partial)  markings too. I might try to sand a little to try to uncover some more before I blast it. Even though I am marking it as a USMC trailer, I want to identify as many of the original markings as possible for the next owner.

25 PSI
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CARC OCT 89

I propped it up to pressure wash underneath. MOST of the tan CARC came off underneath. They didn’t even bother taking the tires/ wheels off when they painted it! All of that civi wiring and lights will be the first thing to go! Too bad they didn’t leave the original wiring harness in place. I’ll probably make my own to replace it.

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Brakes finally done! 

I received my 3 leg hub puller last week, but just got around to using it today. Setup was simple – attach the legs to the puller disk, bolt the legs to the hub using the wheel studs and lug nuts, grease the screw and hammer on the “dog bone” a few times.

Then tap on the puller bolt a few times to release the tension. Repeat until the hub or hub/drum assembly pops off. It took me about 2 minutes for mine to pop loose – amazing how easy some tasks are when you have the right tools!

Once I got the assembly off, I literally had to beat on the center of the hub with the drum on the concrete floor to separate the hub and drum! It was really stuck.

The backing plate, shoes and hardware were caked with sand and mud just like the other side was. The shoes were pretty much toast!

I cleaned everything up and reassembled with the new shoes I ordered through Advance Auto and the new wheel cylinder I got from QTM Parts. Reassembly was MUCH easier without the hub in the way!
Once I put the hub back on, I realized that I had lost the axle nut and washer! I looked everywhere. The only thing I can figure is that I had left it on the frame or somewhere and took it for a test drive – it is SOMEWHERE in the field I guess! I went ahead and tapped the hub all the way on with a deep socket. I coated the area that contacts the drum, as well as the drum screws, with anti seize and reinstalled the drum. 

Next, I stole the axle nut off my other jeep and installed it to make due until I can order another one. 

I adjusted the new shoes and went inside to get my daughter to help bleed the brakes. We got all of the old fluid out of the system and got all but one wheel cylinder bled. The right rear had a clogged hard line. 

When removing it, the nut at the tee on the axle housing was frozen. I finally ended up using vise grips on the nut and a 9/16″ wrench to hold the tee to get it loose. One removed from the jeep, I tried to blow it out with air pressure. After a few tries, the pressure pushed the blockage out. I proceeded to spray some PBblaster through the line to clean it.

Once cleaned, I reinstalled it and bled the lines again – by myself – with the help of a makeshift pedal holder.
I took it up the driveway for a test drive. It did pretty good, but I think I need to adjust the shoes a little more because the wheels won’t lock up on a dirt driveway. 

Next I adjusted the clutch free play to 1 1/4″ and went for drive. It still won’t stall the engine starting off in 2nd gear. I guess I need a new clutch – and, more than likely, a new rear seal. I am getting stuff done, but it feels like one step forward,  3 steps back! Also, the clutch cable fork was attached using a bolt. It had 7 washers on the outside, but DID have a hole drilled and a critter pin installed in the end! I should’ve taken a picture of they one! I cut down another S.S. bolt, drilled a hole and rounded the head on the lathe and installed it- one more bubba mod fixed correctly! 

Another thing to note for this week. I won an auction for an M762 trailer. It  is the same chassis as the M416 trailer, but with a flat bed instead of a box. I could only pick it up on Friday, after lunch. So since this Friday was the only one I had off,  I decided to drive down, 212 miles, to pick it up. I got everything together for the recovery and left bright and early Friday morning. 95 miles into the trip, my right front brake locked up and ended the journey! I rigged the caliper so it wouldn’t work and limped back home with my tail between my legs. Still trying to figure out how to pick it up before the 10 days (pickup time) is up.

So, what should I do next? I have a couple more days that I can work on it this week. I think the mechanical is pretty much sorted out (except for replacing the clutch), so I guess I need to move on to either body or electrical.

Rear hub, diff service and thermostat

I went out to work on the Jeep this morning. I started with the hub. Pulled the puller out of the box and NEITHER of the castings would work! One was wide enough but not deep enough – the other was deep enough but not wide enough to reach across the studs. So I stopped working on that and moved on.

Next, I installed the rear diff cover and filled it with GL4 and friction modifier. Here’s a crappy pic.

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Next I moved to the thermostat. I made a gasket for it because nobody had one in stock – then installed it.

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Then I moved to the front diff. I pulled the cover, cleaned the surfaces, blasted the cover and cleaned the bolts and tags.

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I scuffed the shocks and set everything up for paint. I sprayed a couple of coats on them and let them dry while I went to town to return the hub puller kit.

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When I got back I installed the front diff cover and filled it. After that, I installed the driver side shock and put the wheel back on the passenger side. Then I filled the radiator and went for a drive. I went up and down the driveway until the temp started moving, then went back to the shop and refilled the radiator. The temp had gotten up to about 190, so I let it idle until it leveled back out. I drove back up the driveway and around the field and it stayed at about 170deg the whole time (it is a 160deg thermostat).

A few things I noticed while driving were 1) the clutch needs adjusting (or at least I HOPE that’s all it needs!), 2) I need to get the body mounting bolts tightened down and 3) The temp, oil pressure, volt meter (if you tap on it) and speedometer (it jumps around – I need to clean and lube the cable) all work now – the fuel gauge isn’t hooked up yet.

Working on rear brakes and diff

Today I worked on the rear brakes. The driver side drum came off easily. It was full of sand and mud.

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I removed the brake shoes and wheel cylinder and cleaned the backing plate and axle seal retainer up by scraping with a screwdriver and putty knife and cleaning with a wire brush. Then I sprayed brake cleaner on it and cleaned it real well. I cleaned the hardware with the wire brush and brake cleaner. I didn’t order new shoes beforehand, so I cleaned the old ones up until I get the new ones (that I ordered tonight) – they have about 1/8″ of lining left. I installed a new wheel cylinder and all of the cleaned parts.

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While I had easy access, I removed the plug in the axle and installed a grease zerk – gave the bearing 6 pumps of grease and reinstalled the plug. I went ahead and removed the shock while it was within reach – one less thing to have to do when I install the new shock tomorrow!

I moved on to the passenger side. This time I couldn’t get the drum to budge – AT ALL! The drum screws came out with a little heat and the big screwdriver with a wrench on the shaft, but the drum wouldn’t budge! I tried the rubber hammer, ball peen hammer, applied PB Blaster and heat – still NOTHING! I guess the only way to get it off is to pull the hub tomorrow so that I can get to it from the back.

I moved on to the rear differential. I pulled the cover and drained the oil – black and runny! I sprayed the rest of the can of brake cleaner on the carrier and gears to clean it up a little, then pulled the drain plug to drain the cleaner. There was about a 1/4″ of sludge on top of 1/4″ of hard sludge in the bottom of the case, so I scraped all that crap out and wiped it clean with a rag. I sandblasted the cover and gave it a couple of coats of 24052 and left it to dry overnight.

The last thing I had time for was to pull the top hose and thermostat housing so that I can install a new thermostat tomorrow. Judging by the look of the coolant (all water, I’m guessing), I need to drain the radiator and block too – and maybe flush it too! It was a nice orange color! Wile I had the thermostat out, I heated it up with a propane torch – just guessing, but it was prob around 250deg before it started opening!

I went online before I went out to the shop this afternoon to order a thermostat (Stant 160deg for $8.99). I had a coupon for 25% off at Advance Auto waiting on me, so I went ahead and ordered the rear shocks (since they had Monroe in stock for $25 ea) too. They were asking $62 for brake shoes, so I didn’t order them there. I saved about $15 ordering online and got another $.87 back through eBates! I went by and picked the parts up after church tonight. While I was there, I bought 2 cans of brake cleaner and 2 bottles of limited slip friction modifier (one for each axle). The bottles are 4oz that treats 2qt of oil – the differentials hold about 1 3/4qt, so I figure a bottle each. This is the brand they had, so I bought it.

oil additive

Kindof pricey at $7.99/bottle, but at least it doesn’t have to be changed often! If I would have thought ahead a little, I would’ve ordered the brake cleaner and this online and saved another $8! While I was at Advance, I rented a hub puller for the passenger side – VERY PRICEY at $100

I left Advance and went to O’Reilly to see if they had brake shoes – they did. They were $30 after tax, but I had to order them – and they wouldn’t be in until late tomorrow afternoon (16:00) – AFTER I finish working on the Jeep for the day! I guess I’ll just get the drum pulled and everything cleaned up and ready to install the new shoes after I get them – I will have to tear the driver side back down too. But at least I will have all new brakes all around after I finish them! BTW – the rear drums looked OK (not GREAT, but OK).

After I finish with removing and cleaning the passenger side brake, I will reinstall the diff cover and refill it (I have a 5gal can of military gear oil, so I didn’t need to buy any of that). I might as well go ahead and remove the front cover, clean it, blast the cover, paint it and reinstall/refill it while I’m doing them and I have the materials. Then I can flush the radiator and block, install the new thermostat and check to see if it is working correctly.

 

 

Brakes and test drive!

I moved my Side by side and lawnmower out of the shop to make room for the Jeep. But before I could pull the Jeep into the shop, it needed brakes (because the shop is on a slope). I pulled it out of the tent do that I could get under it in the open to examine the parking brake. I figured that would be sufficient to get the Jeep into the shop so that I could work on the brakes.

Once underneath, I noticed that the parking brake lever was real loose and there was no adjustment (threads) left on the rod. My only option was to disassemble the parking brake assembly to see what was going on with it. After wrestling with the outer shoe cotter pin for a while, I finally got it all apart and took it to the shop for a cleaning. This is what I found:

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YEP, that’s metal – not brake lining! The outer shoe was paper thin too.

It just so happened that I had ordered a pair of NOS shoes a few months back for my other Jeep that I had yet to install, so I used the new inner shoe and the old outer one. I reassembled it on the Jeep and tested it out – still noisy, but at least it held!

I pulled the Jeep into the shop using the parking brake and low range and got to work on the brakes. First off was to reinstall the brake light switch – no problem there. Next, I added fluid to the master cylinder – it had all leaked out because it didn’t have a switch installed. I pumped the pedal slowly a few times, then wedged a piece of 2×4 between the pedal and fuel tank. Then I went to the front wheels and cracked bleeders – got a little air out of them. I went to the back and bled them. I repeated the process until I had a little bit of a pedal.

I couldn’t stand it any longer – I had to take a test drive!

I was impressed! The engine was smooth, as well as the transmission and transfer case. The transfer case levers were pretty stiff at first, but as I worked them, they operated easier. The clutch needs adjusting as well as the brakes need more attention. The only gauge that worked was oil pressure – the speedometer was jumping around.

I went back to the shop to start on the list of items I need to work on. I pulled the gauge cluster off and hooked up the NOS temp gauge I bought at Denton to the sending unit wire – it went up to about 140deg. So I removed the old gauge and painted the new one. Once it was dry, I installed it. I hooked up the ignition wire to the spare volt gauge I had – and it worked. This gauge doesn’t have a hold down bracket, so I couldn’t install it. I was done with the gauge cluster for the day.

Next I jacked up the rear end and put a jack stand under the driver side so I could change out the rear brake flex line. Pretty straight forward and quick fix. The old one was pretty ratty!

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I took another test drive (without bleeding the rear brakes again). The temp gauge took FOREVER to start moving! Once it did start, it only went up to 140deg even after about 10 minutes of driving around the field! When I got back to the shop, I used the temp gun to get an actual temp – the water temp at the filler was about 134deg! Weird! The head temp was only about 205deg. The lower radiator hose read about 90. I’m going to have to investigate that.

Next, I checked my lights. No headlights, the right front bo marker light didn’t work, rear running lights didn’t work but the bo marker lights did. No dash lights work. I wiggled the levers and the harness connector – no change. So I grabbed my NOS replacement and hooked the connector to it. Viola! – headlights, rear running lights, rear bo marker lights and driver front bo marker worked! The dash lights and front passenger bo marker still don’t (I think the dash lights are bulbs and the marker light is a ground issue).

The last thing I did was to clean the sand off the top of the shift tower as well as remove a bunch of silicon the P.O. put under the shift tower cover. I vacuumed a bunch of blasting media from all around the inside of the tub and toolbox area and the sand from the top of the shifter tower. The I re installed the shift tower cover.

The plan for tomorrow is to install a second inline filter on the fuel line and hook the fuel line back up to see if it will run right from the tank. After that, I might pull the rear drums to inspect and clean the brakes and replace the wheel cylinders.

It’s nice to see both of them in the shop side by side!

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Getting it running again

Yesterday, I was doing a step by step for troubleshooting found on http://www.willysmjeeps.com. I found that I had a voltage drop of .6v from battery voltage to the #12 connector at the distributor.

So I decided to start cleaning connectors and connections. I started with the battery clamps. I cleaned them on the bench grinder wire wheel. I cleaned the cable ends with a wire brush.  Once clean, I reassembled using an anti corrosion grease.

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Next, I moved on to the battery to frame ground wire. I disassembled it and cleaned everything with a wire brush and wire wheel and reassembled with anti corrosion grease.

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While I was cleaning electrical stuff, I moved to the starter pedal contacts. I pulled all of the wires and the contacts off. I disassembled it and cleaned everything inside and out.  The insulation pads were in good condition. I repainted it, reassembled and reinstalled using anti corrosion grease.

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When I retested, I was only .1v off of battery voltage! Success!

Next, I moved on to the timing. I ended up removing the original distributor and installed my spare (with points) because I was getting an irregular spark. When I screwed the #12 wire in, the insulation on it crumbled. So I ended up replacing a 6″ section of the wire with a new one.

 

As it turns out,  the timing was about 30deg off! No wonder it was spitting and popping and wouldn’t start most of the time! In order to get enough rotation of the distributor,  my only choice was to re index the distributor – which means re indexing the oil pump too.

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An easy way to do this (by yourself) is to

  1. Put the engine at #1 TDC,
  2. Loosen the 3 bolts holding the oil pump in and drop the pump out of the block about 3″. You might have to use something to keep the pump from falling out completely.
  3. Go around to the other side and turn the rotor until it is pointing at the lower middle dist cap screw hole, which is about #1. You might want to turn the dist body until it has enough swing to adjust the timing also.
  4. Go around to the driver side and try to push the pump back in the pump. It will prob come to about 1/4″ of the block. At this point, I wedged the wooden handle of a wire brush between the pump body and the steering gear to put a little pressure on it (if you have a helper to push it, it would be that much easier).
  5. Go around to the passenger side and turn the rotor until the pump and dist shaft align and the pump pops up to the block. This might not happen though – if you don’t achieve engagement by rotating from 9 o’clock to 4 o’clock, try again. If it engages (and is pointing at the #1 position), stop here. If not, continue to the next step (#6) below.
  6. Go back around to the oil pump and drop it out of the block until you can get to the gear.
  7. Rotate the gear clockwise by about 2 teeth. and go back to step #4.
  8. Repeat the process until you end up with the rotor pointing at #1 with the oil pump seated.
  9. Bolt the oil pump back to the block.
  10. Make sure that the rotor turns when the engine is rotated.
  11. WIth the timing pointer set at 10deg BTDC, rotate the dist body until the points spark.
  12. Tighten the dist down so that it is hard to turn (but can be turned to adjust the timing.
  13. Hook up your timing light and adjust the timing to 10deg BTDC.
  14. Lock down the distributor.

Note: To hook up a timing light, you can use one of 2 methods: 1) Military timing light adaptor screwed onto your spark plug wire and onto the plug – clamp the pickup around the adaptor wire and hook the power up to ONE battery. Or 2) Remove the military waterproof wire and plug and install a civilian wire into the dist cap and a civilian plug – hook the timing light up as above.

Once I got the distributor set right, I turned on my gravity feed fuel tank (2 gallon gas can sitting on the cowl with a fuel line running to the carb.) and tried to start her up. After about 5 seconds of choke, she fired right up and idled pretty good! I shut her down and had a beer to celebrate.

After that, I went back out and fired her back up for an idle check.

Next, I re installed the valve cover, air cleaner lid and vent lines. Then I added water to the radiator (I will put antifreeze in it after I KNOW everything is right) and fired her back up so I could run her until warm. I checked the timing and adjusted the carb. THEN I realized that I never plugged the vacuum tee! I plugged that and had to readjust the carb again. This thing runs smoother and quieter than my original Jeep! I jumped in and pulled her out of the tent and let her idle out there for a couple of minutes until it started raining, so I backed it back in. It feels pretty powerful too!

I guess the next project will be to get the brakes bled so I can take her for a test drive!

 

Found another problem

I was going to remove the radio noise suppressor capacitor (at the power plug on the side of the distributor)  and do the bypass mod. As I was trying to unscrew the connector I noticed this:

MAJOR melted wire!  The insulation was melted away and the bare wire was touching the connector body. I also noticed that the connector shell had arced to the outside connector.  Maybe this is the cause of it skipping? Surely it wasn’t helping the matter!

I disassembled the #12 wire connector, cut off the female butt connector then  desoldered it. Next, I cut the #12 back far enough to get back to good wire and insulation and resoldered the female end back on.

I reassembled the connector and hooked it back up – PROBLEM SOLVED!

I tried to start the Jeep and all I got was spitting and spuddering and a few backfires through both the carb AND exhaust.  After some troubleshooting, I decided it was a timing problem,  so I loosened the distributor and adjusted it a little.  It fired right off,  but died just as quickly. I adjusted the distributor and tried again a same thing.  Tried again and again. I think it is flooded real good and not wanting to run at all now.  I’ll try again Saturday – I got off of work this morning and I’m TIRED!  At least I found a problem and fixed it, whether that was the main problem or not.