My week off has ended – happy with my progress on the M38a1 this week!

I like the way I listed the progress yesterday, so I am going to stick with that format for a while.

Today I primed the fuel line, hooked up the fuel pump, installed a fuel filter, test drove while running from the fuel pump, checked plugs/points/rotor/cap, checked the parking brake, checked the gauges, stripped and painted the rear hubs/drums and switched the rear tires/wheels.

First: I installed a 2′ section of fuel line onto the hard fuel line after the shut off valve and hung it over the fender. Next, I stuffed a rag into the filler neck to keep the air pressure from escaping. I used my air hose to pressurize the fuel tank to push gas through the new fuel line through the rubber line hanging over the fender. Once fuel was coming out of the rubber line, I shut the shut off valve – the easy way to prime that line! No leaks were observed and I’m guessing the in tank fuel filter is clean!

Second: I was curious about the stock military fuel pump since it seemed to be pulling (as shown by the vacuum gauge). So I hooked up a temporary nipple on the pump inlet and installed a short section of rubber fuel line from the shut off nipple to the fuel pump nipple.

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At the point where the previous owner cut the hard line going to the carb (for some reason it was cut where it curved going over the valve cover), I installed the 2′ section of rubber hose and ran it over the fender again. I cranked the engine with the ignition off – gas was flowing very quickly. So I guess the military pump is good! I checked the oil level and will keep an eye on that to make sure that the pump isn’t dumping gas into the oil because of a bad diaphragm. Since it was pumping, I installed a short piece of rubber hose, a filter and another short hose to connect to the carb nipple.

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I took a test drive and it seemed to have enough gas to run the whole time, so I guess the fuel system is sorted until I get my new flex fuel line. I am going to leave the fuel filter on for a while in case some of the left over crap in the fuel line breaks loose.

Second: I pulled the plugs/checked the rotor and cap. The plugs were covered with soot – running too rich with that electric fuel pump I guess.

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I cleaned and gapped them. The gaps were set VERY tight – .020″! Not to mention they were the wrong plugs and one of the electrodes was broken! I replaced the broken one and gapped the rest – reinstalled them. Fired it up and it still had a skip. Next I pulled the cap. The rotor had some carbon tracking on the edge of the electrode, so I cleaned it off. The cap also had some carbon tracking around all of the posts, so I cleaned them.

 

While I was in there, I noticed that it already had the pointless ignition upgrade installed!

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I fired it back up – still has a skip. I guess the only other thing it could be is the plug wires. I guess I’ll put my spare set on to check that the next time I’m off. I did notice that there is an exhaust leak – sounds like it is coming from the exhaust manifold.

Third: I crawled underneath to adjust the parking brake. No luck there – no adjustment left on the rod and the shoes look to be VERY thin! Guess I’ll have to either get them re lined or buy new ones.

Forth: I checked the gauges. The oil pressure is working. Fuel is a 12v, so I couldn’t check it. Volt meter wasn’t working. Temp wasn’t working.

For the volt meter, I polarized the generator since it has been sitting a while. That involved disconnecting the generator to regulator cable, inserting a jumper in the “B” hole (lower left – it’s marked), and touching the starter hot post until you see a small spark. I fired her back up – it still wasn’t showing a charge. So I put the multimeter across the batteries – it WAS charging (28.5v). I tapped on the gauge and it jumped up to show a charge! Gauge is sticking!

For the Temp meter, I followed the testing procedure (I will email it to you if you need it). I disconnected the wire to the sender. I connected the Pos multimeter lead to the sender and the Neg to ground. I noted the Ohm reading. I started the engine – as it warmed up, the Ohms DECREASED. This tells me that the sending unit is GOOD. I went inside and pulled the gauge cluster. I connected a jumper to the terminal from the sending unit and grounded it. I turned on the ignition switch and nothing happened. The needle is SUPPOSED to jump to full scale and back full left when the switch is turned off. This tells me that the gauge is bad. I confirmed this by pulling the gauge out of my other Jeep and hooking it up.

The Oil pressure gauge is working. I had a spare Fuel gauge, but it has Douglas connectors. I hooked it up temporarily to test that the fuel sending unit works. It does – the fuel gauge jumped to 1/4 tank.

Last thing I did: I switched wheels/tires. I checked the wheels on my other Jeep and found one wheel/tire (the spare) was the newer replacement (with a flat on the center section where it meets the rim). I pulled it off. Next, I checked my M100 – it also had one newer wheel, so I pulled it off. I pulled the rear M151 wheels off of the Jeep. While I had the wheels off, I figured I might as well go ahead and strip/paint the hubs and drums. So I scraped and wire brushed until they were fairly clean. I pulled the hub caps and cleaned them and the lug nuts with the wire wheel on the bench grinder. I sprayed them with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer and let that dry. Then I mixed up some Behr 24052 and diluted with water and sprayed everything. After that dried to touch (only took about 30 min), I wire brushed the wheel studs and put the new tires/wheels on. Now it’s looking better!

20170118_163103Too bad the hubs are OD 24052  and the wheels are OD 24087 – I’ll take care of that little discrepancy at a later date. It’s looking more like a military Jeep now! I guess I need to blast those front ones to even it out.

I went ahead and put the windshield and hood back on to get them out of the way while I’m away at work.

I guess it’s time to order some parts so I’ll have something to do the next time I’m off!

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