Found another problem

I was going to remove the radio noise suppressor capacitor (at the power plug on the side of the distributor)  and do the bypass mod. As I was trying to unscrew the connector I noticed this: 

MAJOR melted wire!  The insulation was melted away and the bare wire was touching the connector body. I also noticed that the connector shell had arced to the outside connector.  Maybe this is the cause of it skipping? Surely it wasn’t helping the matter! 

I disassembled the #12 wire connector, cut off the female butt connector then  desoldered it. Next, I cut the #12 back far enough to get back to good wire and insulation and resoldered the female end back on. 

I reassembled the connector and hooked it back up – PROBLEM SOLVED! 

I tried to start the Jeep and all I got was spitting and spuddering and a few backfires through both the carb AND exhaust.  After some troubleshooting, I decided it was a timing problem,  so I loosened the distributor and adjusted it a little.  It fired right off,  but died just as quickly. I adjusted the distributor and tried again a same thing.  Tried again and again. I think it is flooded real good and not wanting to run at all now.  I’ll try again Saturday – I got off of work this morning and I’m TIRED!  At least I found a problem and fixed it, whether that was the main problem or not. 

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New batteries and running again

I exchanged the Group 24 batteries for a pair of 51r batteries. I still can’t figure out why the smaller and lower CCA batteries cost $14 more each. I installed them in the Jeep and tried to fire it up – no go. Starting fluid – fires up instantly. I loosen the fuel line going into the carb – it spews gas, so I figure the filter is clogged or the needle is stuck. I pull the filter – it’s fine. I pull the carb top – the needle isn’t stuck. I turn the engine over with the gas line unhooked – plenty of gas flow. I hooked it back up – no start.

Soooo – I unhook the gas line at the disposable filter, cut the shut off valve off and put a funnel on top of the rubber hose – it fires up and runs until the gas is gone?????? What the hell???? I rig up a small (old weedeater) gas tank to the rubber hose – it fires up and runs until the gas is gone – even it is running rough and skipping.

I am guessing that the fuel pump isn’t putting out enough gas or pressure to feed the engine. Yes, I DID check the fuel level and there IS gas in the tank.

My week off is over, so I guess I’ll get back on it next week for a day or two. Funds are short, so I hope I don’t run into anything that requires any more $$$!

Non productive day

Not much to share today.  All I was really able to get done was to Sam’s down/paint and re secure the steering column.

I removed the horn button boot and steering wheel nut.  That was sort of interesting – I had never seen the metal securing band like this one has.  But once the boot was removed,  you can see that it did its job – it kept the moisture out! 

The steering wheel is stuck solid and I don’t have a puller.  I’m going to have to borrow or rent one to get it off. I tried a rubber hammer after soaking with pb blaster but it still didn’t budge.

Next, I started to install the batteries so I could fire this mutha up.  Guess what?  The new Group 24 batteries are about 3/8″ wider than the ones I pulled out of the Jeep!  At least the Everstart max battery is anyway.  

So that was a no go on installing them! Back to Wal-Mart for me tomorrow.  This time I will be ready with battery box dimensions and a tape measure.  If i can’t find anything else that will fit, I guess I’ll just buy the 51r like I have in the other Jeep. I like the group 24 because it is a tight fit AND more CCAs, but I’d they won’t fit it doesn’t really matter what I like!  I’m hoping the Everstart plus will fit because they were 650 CCA. I am also conflicted about whether to use the reverse post battery or standard.  It seemed like with the standard configuration,  the cables were easier to install. 

I went back to the other Jeep to measure the batteries and noticed that one of them had been leaking and there was some corrosion on the hold down and tray.  So I had to take the time to pull that battery,  spray it down with neutralizer and wash it down.  While I had it out, I checked the electrolyte – fine,  and voltage – NOT fine (10.34V). That would explain it – the Jeep was overcharging it to make up for that battery and boiled it. I have it on a trickle charge now – hoping I don’t have to buy a 3rd battery!  Those batteries are over 6yrs old,  so I HAVE gotten good service life out of them – just can’t really afford ANOTHER $116 (with tax) battery at the present time. 

Bearings and brakes done on front end

I ordered the correct (18590) bearing and (6626s) seal from CARQUEST yesterday – total $27 with tax. I picked them up this morning. I also stopped by Wal-mart to pick up my batteries while I was in town. I had a $200 Wal-mart gift card – reason I bought Ever Start batteries.

I bought 2 Everstart Macc 24F batteries because they were only $10 more than the Plus ones. The Maxx have a 3yr free replacement and 5yr warranty and the Plus has a 3yr warranty. The Jeep had Group 24 batteries installed in it when I got it. It was a tight fit, but they DID fit – I like that compared to the 51R batteries in my other a1.

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I got home and greased up the new bearing – installed it and the new seal. The hub bore had expanded a little when I pressed in the larger bearing race the other day, so the seal just fell in. I had to hammer on the side of the hub a little to tighten up the fit so that it had to be tapped in with a hammer.

I got everything installed without a problem – installed the larger bearing on the outer hub. This causes the nuts to be at the outer edge of the threads on the spindle, but it DOES fit – hopefully it will help with wear.

I installed the drum and hub cap and gave everything a coat of 24052.

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I installed the tires and adjusted the new brakes. All I have left is to do to the front end is to buy/install new shocks, change the pinion seal and change the differential oil now.

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I think tomorrow I will install the batteries and try to get her running again so that I can move her back and forth from the carport to the shop when I can work on her.

 

Driver side spring – DONE

Today I pulled the front, driver side spring off for rebuild. The only problem I had was the rear shackle plate didn’t want to budge, so I had to use the air hammer with an extension to drive it off.

Once on the sawhorses, I removed the clamp bolts and bent the clamp that was bent over the spring open enough to remove it from the pack. The top leaf was only broken in one place and no other leaves were broken – yay! The nut on the center pin was rusted in place, so I had to grind the top of the pin off to remove it. Make sure you install a C clamp before you grind the head off or remove the nut from the center pin!

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After the spring pack was disassembled, I used my side grinder to clean the leaves of dirt, sand and rust. A quick wipe down with paint thinner cleans them enough for the rust converter. This is the type I use when there is deep rust. The spray on type works pretty good for light rust.

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I applied 2 coats to both sides of the leaves and let it dry before reassembly. It goes on white and converts the rust to a tough black coating when dry.

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While they were drying, I chucked a 5/16″x3″ stainless bolt into the lathe and turned the head down until round – to replace the center pin.

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I clamped the pin in the vise and stacked the leaves until the pin was covered. Then I put a C clamp on it to pull it down enough to finish stacking the leaves and install the nut. I sprayed a coat of 24052 on the under side of the spring pack and let it dry while I cleaned the u bolts, nuts and spring plate. I flipped the spring pack over and sprayed a coat on all the hardware and top side of the spring pack.

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After an hour or so, it was dry enough to install. The pack went on easily since all the hardware was clean.

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Hopefully I can find a 18590 bearing and correct seal tomorrow so that I can put this thing back together and get it on the ground. I found the correct Monroe shocks at O’Reilly, so I might as well go ahead and replace those while I am working on the front end!

Working on brakes again

I took my front drums to O’Reilly Auto Parts to get them turned last Sunday. They finally told me on Tuesday that they were “low spec”, but had new ones for $45 ea – so I picked them up on the way home from work. I ordered 4 new wheel cylinders from QTM Parts (figured since both of the fronts were bad, the back ones would be too. Plus they were  much cheaper buying the set) and new shoes for the front from Advance Auto online ($20 after online savings AND I got eBates cash). SOooo – I had the parts I needed to work with when I got off for my week off.

I started yesterday by cleaning the backing plate. The red paint was in pretty good condition, so I didn’t repaint it. I installed the new wheel cylinder, cleaned all of the springs and hardware and installed the new pads. I’m glad I took pics of how everything came apart.

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Next I grabbed a new drum and compared it to the old one. These are Brake Best Select Premium from O’reilly. They are from China of course. The overall measurements are basically the same, but the drum profile is different and there is more surface for a larger shoe – 2″ maybe?

I cleaned the whole drum with brake cleaner to get the light coat of oil off of everything. I had to back the adjustment cams all the way off to get the drum on, but it fit well. The countersink for the mounting screws was wrong and they didn’t fit flush. I sprayed on a coat of 24052 to make it pretty.

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TIP:  Don’t do like I did and hammer the cap on – bending it up of coarse. I learned that the hub socket fits perfectly over the hub cap and allows you to seat it without bending the cap!

On to the driver side

I disassembled the driver side brakes last week, so all I had to do was pull the hub and reassemble – or so I thought.

First, the hub was HELL to get off! I had to PRY it off with the handle of the hammer (wood) and tap on it with the hammer. Once I got it off I found out why. The seal was basically destroyed, letting water in to rust up the bearings. It’s funny (not really), but the driver side bearings FELT better than the passenger side – and the brakes actually worked (and I was able to bleed the wheel cylinder) on that side. When it was pulled apart, all the parts were WORSE than the passenger side!

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Once completely disassembled and the backing plate and hardware cleaned, I had to paint the backing plate and rear of the hub.

The bearings were too pitted to re-use, so I proceeded to look for a set – on Saturday, in Chester SC, for a 53yo Jeep. Yeah, like that was going to happen! Well, I typed in 1965 Jeep CJ5 like I always do when looking for parts. I actually found a PAIR of bearings in Rock Hill – about 20 miles away. I ordered them online (Advance Auto). National Bearing A-35 was the part #. I couldn’t find the seal on the website. I went to pick the bearings up anyway – surely they had a seal!

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I showed up to get the parts – they looked to be the right size. She searched for a seal – no go. Had to order it – would be there in 2 days! On a whim, I went to Autozone – same thing, had to order, but could have it the NEXT DAY. But I had already ordered a $10 seal from Advance. I went to O’Reilly next door – same thing, next day. OF COURSE I would order it from the place that would take 2 days!

I went home and installed the bearing races – at least I could get that much done. I drove the old ones out and mic’ed them. The new ones were very slightly larger than the old – and the bearing cones were a little taller. I pressed the races in and everything looked good.

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When I layed the seal in the hub, IT WAS LOOSE. I am guessing that the larger diameter bearing race expanded the hub. I am hoping that I didn’t ruin the hub! I like the idea of the larger bearing surface on the outside, so I will install one on the other hub as well so that I don’t waste money on these bearings. I will drive the inner race out to see if the hub was ruined today.

With that EPIC FAIL out of the way, I soldiered on and decided to at least get the brakes installed on the driver side. That was easy enough, except for that return spring – that thing is STIFF!

Before pic:

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After:

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When I got inside after dark, I decided to research why I got the wrong bearings. I found this:

FRONT Axle, outer bearing:
Figure 10-4, Key DD & EE
Quantity: 2 each per side
Bearing: 705423, Current #: Timken 18590
Race: 706836, Current #: Timken 18520

From g503 forums

I saw the Timken # on the bearing – I just figured that A-35 crossed to this one – WRONG! The National # is the same.

I also found this on the same post:

Seal, Oil, Front Hub:
Figure 10-4, Key CC
Quantity: 2 each
H013-83-29731, Current #: National 6626-S

Guess what? I ordered the WRONG seal too!

Come to find out, starting in 1964 or 65, the hub must have changed. The earlier hubs are shorter and smaller inner diameter than the 1965 that I was looking up for all of my other parts. I changed my search to 1963 Jeep CJ5 and BOOM – there is the 18590 bearing #! Live and learn.

Like I said, I am hoping that I can still use the larger bearings on the outer end of the hub – they have about 1/8″ larger bearing surface and there is no seal for it to interfere with, so theoretically it should work there – and I won’t lose $30 in the process! I am going to have to order a replacement bearing for the inner hub.

Today I will be removing/rebuilding/installing the driver side leaf spring.

 

 

 

Springs and driver side brake

Short write-up today,  but I got the spring back together, painted and installed.

I stacked the leaves using a proper size screwdriver clamped in the vise. 

Next, I clamped it all together and removed the screwdriver – then installed the center bolt. The rest of the bolts and spacers were pretty rusty, so I am going to replace them.

Throw on a little paint and install on the Jeep. Good as new!

Next I moved on to removing the brakes from the driver side.  This was a pain! The shoes were worn into the drum AND,  after I got the drum off after about an hour,  I found that the wheel cylinder was corroded up worse than the other side. I doubt I can rebuild it.

I went ahead and ordered 4 wheel cylinders and shoes last night.  If the front 2 cylinders were bad,  the rest probably will be too. I got them cheaper by ordering all 4. I will probably end up replacing the rear shoes and master cylinder too.

I dropped the drums off at O’Reilly Auto tonight and picked up some brake cleaner and more rust converter and a piece of 3/8″ brake line to make new spacers. The new shoes and wheel cylinders should be here by Thursday, so I can get them rebuilt on Friday. Then I can get the other spring rebuilt, clean/repack wheel bearings and I’ll be done with the front end.