Ready for paint?

I got out to the shop this morning and checked out my new wheels. 2 of them are in real good condition and the third is bent in a few places (on the back side, so it will be good enough for the trailer that won’t get much use). I guess I still came out alright though – 2 good ones for $60ea and one that is useable for free (that’s the way I’m looking at it anyway). Looks like all they will need is scuffing and painting. None of them are late model wheels, but I guess it really doesn’t matter for a spare.


After checking those out, I got to work wet sanding the red oxide. I started on the cowl, down the passenger side, rear panel, up the driver side and then the hood. I had a big run on the passenger side right behind the door that I wasn’t able to sand out without gouging, so I had to spot prime that area again. The area under the passenger side door turned out great this time.


The driver side sanded out wit no problem areas.


Then I got to the hood! It HAS to be right since this is the biggest area (and most noticeable) on the Jeep. I sanded each section cross hatch, then cleaned and dried it, sanded cross hatch again after I touched up the spots I missed, washed and dried it. Then I came back and sanded (dry) one last time. It came out baby’s butt smooth!


Hopefully ready for paint the next time I’m off on my 7 days!



Still on bodywork

Today, I block sanded the passenger side with 120, then 220 (because that’s what I had). Then I taped the whole passenger and the rear up. I mixed up about 6oz of Rustoleum red oxide with mineral spirits and sprayed the passenger side repair (to cover up the gray primer) and the rear panel.



I still had plenty of red oxide left, so I sprayed over any area that I had sanded down to the metal or gray primer on the rest of the Jeep.


I STILL had plenty left, so I put the hood on saw horses and sprayed it!


Glad to get this done – now I can wet sand one last time tomorrow and (hopefully) have a perfectly smooth body for final paint! Even if it’s not, I won’t be priming again – it’s on to final paint after I wet sand. The passenger side turned out good and I fixed one other spot on the driver side rear quarter (you can see the gray primer in the pic above).

My Father in Law picked up 3 M38a1 wheels from a guy in Fayetteville for me today, so I will have a spare tire for BOTH M38a1s and the M100 trailer. I’ll post some pics of those tomorrow. One more missing piece (or 3) of the puzzle!

Back to the bodywork

It’s cold and rainy in SC today and I just got off work this morning. So after a quick nap, I headed to the shop to work on the Jeep.

I had an idea about using the red oxide primer as a sealer so that I wouldn’t have to prime, sand, then paint. I read the cans (spray bomb) of the Rustoleum 2 in 1 filler primer and the generic red oxide primer. The Rustoleum said you could spray the finish coat as soon as it was dry. The red oxide said to sand 30 minutes after it dried – didn’t say anything about recoating after it dried. So I did an experiment on the rear quarters. I sprayed one quarter with each of the primers – 2 light coats each covered well. When dry, I recoated with 3 light coats of 24052.

The red oxide was completely covered and smooth.

The Rustoleum 2 in 1 was the complete opposite – wasn’t completely covered, rough and lighter color. The camera actually caught dust floating in the air, so this pic isn’t the best.

Looks like I am going to be spraying (testing first) Rustoleum red oxide as a sealer before I paint!

Next I got to work on the passenger side body work. I sanded it back down to the Bondo, cleaned with paint thinner, then spread a 1/4″ thick coat from the fender to the rear wheel well for good measure (to make sure I got everything covered this time). I used the DA to smooth it out, then blocked it with 80grit. I had a few places that weren’t smooth, so I spread some glazing putty over them (plus a little extra for good measure).

While that was drying, I noticed how bad the front frame rails looked, so I sanded them down and repainted them.

I had a little paint left in the spray can, so I painted the top bow brackets that I cleaned and primed the other day.

Once the glazing putty was dry, I blocked it down, added a little more in a couple of places, blocked it again, taped it off and sprayed 3 coats of primer on it. I’ll sand that down tomorrow and prime with red oxide (I have to go buy some – the little bit I had was bad). I think i got the body work right this time! One step closer to final paint!

Last day off this week

Today was my last day off. I think I got a good bit accomplished this week off.

Today, I went to O’reilly and bought a 5/16″x40″ (outside diameter) fuel line and 3/16″x40″ Copperhead brake line. The Copperhead line is a nickel/copper alloy that is easy to bend, won’t kink and stronger than copper line – I thought I would give it a try on my gas tank vacuum line.

When I got home, I made the first two bends of the fuel line and connected it to the elbow under the Jeep. Then I finished the last two bends at the tank. Then I removed the line to cut it to length and re flare the end.


I repeated the process with the vacuum line. Of course, it was as easy to bend as copper line and didn’t start to collapse with a 90deg bend.


I tie wrapped the lines together to help with vibration noise. Hopefully I can find the correct hard line connectors.


Next, I was able to FINALLY get the steering wheel off! I removed the fixture, heated the shaft with a torch, lubed with WD40 Rust Penetrant, reinstalled the fixture and cranked down on the bolt. A little while later, I cranked down a couple more turns and it popped loose!


This pic shows how much pressure I have kept on the fixture for the past 4 days!


After I got the old wheel off, I cleaned the threads and splines and test fit the new wheel. I don’t really like the green, so I might paint it black like the original one.


Next, I painted the military anti theft device and the parking brake handle and bolts. I reinstalled them after they dried.



I finished wet sanding the driver side and rear of the Jeep. I guess next week I will re do the bodywork on the passenger side and get it ready for paint. Then I can put the finish coat of paint on the whole Jeep.


I had a few minutes left to work on it, so I grabbed the top bow brackets, cleaned them with the wire wheel and sprayed them with a coat of primer.


The plan for next Tues-Thurs will be to re do the passenger side bodywork, get it ready for paint and put the final coat of paint on it. Getting that much done next week will put me in a good position to have it ready for the Denton rally at the end of April.

Starting to reassemble things

First thing today was to scrape the driveway that I have been neglecting for a LONG time! After a few hours of that, it started raining and I couldn’t finish, so I went to the shop!

I started off by reinstalling the gas tank with new foam cushions underneath. Then I moved on to the drain hole covers, then removed the transmission cover and installed my new shifter boot. Once that was back together, I put the transfer shifter boot over the levers and the trim ring on. I couldn’t find the screws for the ring, so I had to find some replacements from my parts drawer. Then I reinstalled the parking brake lever, passenger seat arm and seat pivots. That pretty much completed the reassembly of the front. Lastly, I dug my new shifter knobs out and installed them. Looks like I’m going to have to repaint the parking brake lever! I decided to replace both the fuel line and the vacuum line going to the gas tank. I know the fuel line had some buildup in it, so I wanted to replace it before installing the new carb. The vacuum line was pretty crusty and bent up, so I figured I would do it while I was removing and replacing lines. Fuel line = 1/4″x34″ and vacuum line = 1/8″x34″. I will pick them up tomorrow morning while I’m in town.


After I finished reassembling as much as I thought was possible without having to remove it at a later date, I moved on to bolting the body back down. I replaced all of the original fasteners with new stainless hardware. The rear compartment carriage bolts are just zinc plated, but the rest are stainless. The carriage bolts also have a smaller head diameter than the originals, but a larger shank diameter (3/8″ vs 5/16″). The square part of the bolt was larger too – which will keep it from spinning like the original was doing. The rear cross member bolts are 1/4″ x 1″ and they were a pain to install – they required moving the tub around to make them fit in the holes.


It looks like tomorrow will be rain again, so I will be in the shop tomorrow afternoon. I will be able to get the lines replaced and might have time to get the rest of the wet sanding done – 2 more items off of my list!


Interior and gas tank paint

I got out to the shop this morning and decided to finish up the gas tank and interior. But before that, I welded up a fixture to (hopefully) help pull the steering wheel. I cut 3 pieces of 1.5″ angle iron and welded them together in a “U” shape. This slides over the steering shaft and a 2 jaw puller attaches to the side angle iron. I drilled a hole through the other side for a bolt – to keep the angle from separating. I put a piece of metal onĀ  of the shaft to keep from messing it up. I tightened the puller down and tapped on the angle iron and puller bolt a few times. I have been spraying the shaft with penetration fluid for a few days.


Next, I reinstalled the l pickup and sender. Once those were installed, I did a little light sanding on the tank and sprayed 2 coats of paint on it. Now it matches the rest of the interior!


I sanded down the front floorboards and gas tank well with 150 grit paper, vacuumed it well and wiped it down with paint thinner. A little taping and masking paper, then I mixed up about 8oz of paint and sprayed 2 heavy coats on the front. I had a little paint left over, so I sprayed a place on the cowl and passenger fender to use it up. Even after the paint felt dry, it was still glossy on the floorboards. Hopefully it will dull down as it cures!


When I was spraying the shifter levers, I remembered the military security device that I had to cut off with a cutoff wheel. I found it in the glovebox.


I welded up the seam on the bottom and the cuts on the end and dressed up the welds – ready for primer, paint and reinstalling after I put the boot on.


There were a few places that didn’t get covered when I painted the interior a couple of weeks ago, so I spray bombed them. Then I reinstalled the rear seat hardware and axe bracket.


There is a decent chance of rain tomorrow, so I’m not 100% sure of what I will be doing. Some of the options are 1)bolt the body back down, 2)install the fuel tank, 3)bend and install new fuel tank fuel line, 4)finish wet sanding, and 5)redo passenger side body work.


Gas tank sealing

It took FOREVER, but I got the had tank sealed! I watched some YouTube videos on using the KBS gas tank sealer system, I saw that the guy had a lot left over. I have a military Jerry can that I bought at a rally a couple of years ago that had a “failed” Kreme sealer in it, so I figured I woulda re seal it with the leftover gas tank sealer that the videos were showing.

I used all of the KBS Kleaner, so I had to go to Wal-Mart this morning to buy some Super Clean and a new propane torch.

When I got home, I got top work cleaning the Jerry can – cleaned it twice with nuts and bolts inside. The Kreme coating was still holding tight – just looked like hell! So I dried it out with the forced air heater. Then I poured in the KBS Rust BLAST that I saved from the gas tank etching. I followed the same procedure as the gas tank for etching.

Once it was dried out using the forced air shop heater, I proceeded to tape up the gas tank for sealing – same as with the cleaning and etching process.

I had a lot of trouble opening the can of sealer. I ended up having to use vise grips to pry the can open!

Once open, you have to mix it up using the stir stick provided. A lot of solids are on the bottom, but you want to avoid shaking, which introduces bubbles into the sealer.

I poured the whole quart into the tank and started rotating the tank. After about 5 minutes of that, I let it sit for a while, then rotated again, let it sit and repeated – for about 30 minutes!

I pulled the tape off the openings to check the progress. The coating went pretty well – only a couple of places that needed to be covered by rotating a little more.

I let it sit for a while, then removed the drain plug – drained out the excess sealer. I had about 1/3rd of a can of sealer after draining.

None of the sealer got up into the filler neck, so I brushed it on there.

I left the gas tank alone and poured the drained sealer into the Jerry can and repeated the process above on it.

After playing with the Jerry can for a while, I went back and rotated, then drained more sealer from the gas tank.

I went back and forth between the tanks- rotting and draining until the sealer set up some and couldn’t be drained anymore. Then I removed the gas tank drain plug and coated the threads with antiseaze and reinstalled. I did the same with the sending unit and pickup plate screws so that the sealer wouldn’t set up on the threads.

Then I moved on and coated the pickup, sending unit, gas cap and Jerry can cap with sealer.

I installed my new stainless filter onto the pickup plate and reinstalled the float on the sending unit.

After doing all of this, I STILL had a 1/4 can of sealer left – I could’ve sealed the other Jerry can I had!

Finally, after HOURS of rotating the tanks so that the sealer wouldn’t “pool”, the sealer set up enough that it wouldn’t run anymore and the thinner areas were dry to the touch.

It looks pretty good and covered well – I think it will work out fine.

AGAIN, this takes A LOT of work and will leave you sore, but my only other option was to ship my tank to a shop to have the RENU process performed, which was going to cost about $400 PLUS shipping! This kit cost $69 delivered and around 9hrs of work.